Absolutely essential test equipment.

[N8NM]

Ditto the isolation transformer. Makes working on live-chassis sets much safer and is easier on test equipment probes...

I'm with others on the tube testers, kind of nice to have but not absolutely essential.

[Rod Beauvex]

Not a piece of test equipment, but I've heard nothing but good things about the Hakko 808 de-soldering iron. I saw one used in a video several years ago on You Tube and it makes de-soldering a snap. I want one plenty bad.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by Rod Beauvex

Not a piece of test equipment, but I've heard nothing but good things about the Hakko 808 de-soldering iron. I saw one used in a video several years ago on You Tube and it makes de-soldering a snap. I want one plenty bad.

There's one for my electronic tools bucket list.

[powerking]

Ditto here on the Hako 808 de-soldering iron. What a great tool. Much easier to use than my old "trusty" PACE soldering/de-soldering station with limited heat & power. Worst thing about the 808 is the price of the tips, but I think there are more reasonable ones on eBay (Chinese clones?) for about $10 each.

Tom (PK)

[bandersen]

How well do they work on old TV and radio chassis ?

The equipment I use most often is -

Soldering station (Weller WES-51)
Isolation transformer (Sencore PR57)
DMM (Fluke 27/FM military surplus. accurate, inexpensive, tough)
CRT / tube tester (Sencore CR70, Hickok 121 & 600A)

[CoogarXR]

I used a shop-owned 808 at my old job. It was nice to use. I don't know how it would serve on non-PCB applications. Nice thing about it, is the built in vac pump. You just hold the trigger and it keeps on sucking (and wind-cooling the tip unfortunately). For my personal use, I use my cheap-o manual pump desoldering iron. It suits me fine for PCB work.

On the 808 though- We had it around for probably the last 3 years before I got laid off. In all that time and probably hundreds if not thousands of components desoldered with it, I only needed a tip change once.

[powerking]

Bob,

I have been using the Hakko 808 now for the last 8 months on various projects. It works well on any PC boards, tube sockets, tie strips, etc. You just have to use the correct size tip (for smaller multi-layer PCB via's) or the larger tip like 1.6mm for vintage point to point de-soldering jobs (and set the heat pot for some extra umph). The de-solder braid will fast move farther and farther away from the workbench after using this tool...

Tom (PK)

[Jon A.]

My arsenal thus far:

Fluke 77 digital multimeter
Zenith 852-120 50Kv HV probe
Zenith 852-240 ultrasonic remote tester
Weller SPG40 soldering iron with a Dremel 219 speed control box for temperature control
Sencore PR57 isolated variac
Sencore CR70 CRT tester
B&K Precision 1479A 30MHz oscilloscope
Leader LCG400 NTSC pattern generator

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Jon A.

My arsenal thus far:

Fluke 8024B DMM (Had my name written all over it... well, actually my month and year of birth are in the instruction manual I downloaded, close enough)
EDS 88A ESR/DCR meter
Zenith 852-120 50Kv HV probe
Zenith 852-240 ultrasonic remote tester
A cheapie 15/30w soldering iron that I really need to get a replacement for. Got that before I got into TVs.

Does your ultrasonic remote tester have the mod to test IR remotes and System 3 drive signals? Zenith went all out with mods to the '240, with neat little articles among their service lit showing how to use it for just about everything. We had a Ziploc style bag with all of the addons for checking horiz drive, vertical drive, and some other checks that involved resistors clipped into the circuit, with the '240 attached in parallel to one of the resistors. I'll di around and see what I can find.

The IR mod added a IR diode, and you drilled a hole in the case to accommodate the diode. The drive mod added two leads and the leads came out of the case through the ultrasonic mic slats cut in the case. The rest of the "mod" parts were external - mostly resistors and a cap or two for coupling. Zenith really liked to add tasks to the remote checker. GE had a similar bitch box for checking their sets - dropped it's use entirely after the MA/MB chassis sets. I used it to check B+ right up into the 2000s. Really neat little testers...

Cheers,

[kcvet]

a metered variac. saved all those new parts from blowing up. I to have a simpson 260

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm

Does your ultrasonic remote tester have the mod to test IR remotes and System 3 drive signals? Zenith went all out with mods to the '240, with neat little articles among their service lit showing how to use it for just about everything. We had a Ziploc style bag with all of the addons for checking horiz drive, vertical drive, and some other checks that involved resistors clipped into the circuit, with the '240 attached in parallel to one of the resistors. I'll di around and see what I can find.

The IR mod added a IR diode, and you drilled a hole in the case to accommodate the diode. The drive mod added two leads and the leads came out of the case through the ultrasonic mic slats cut in the case. The rest of the "mod" parts were external - mostly resistors and a cap or two for coupling. Zenith really liked to add tasks to the remote checker. GE had a similar bitch box for checking their sets - dropped it's use entirely after the MA/MB chassis sets. I used it to check B+ right up into the 2000s. Really neat little testers...

Cheers,

Oh wow, and I only got it as a supplement to my ultrasonic remote collection and because I had never seen one before. The only mod done to this unit is a notch cut in the case that brings the battery connector to the outside. This was done by the previous owner.

[zenith2134]

I have found that the model-specific and chassis-specific service literature is invaluable with vintage TV and audio gear.
Instead of spending a great deal of time troubleshooting by taking voltages or injecting signals or tracing circuitry, you can really pinpoint a problem in a short amount of time regardless of skill level. Things such as I.F. alignment are virtually impossible without the SAMS or equivalent. Same goes for setting convergence/purity although this of course can be 'winged' so long as you've got the proper test gear.
Most of all, I'd say that my external degauss coils, and marker/generator are my most used test equipment. Besides simple tools such as multimeter, HV probe, hand tools etc.
You know what is really nice to have? a variable voltage supply capable of supplying many amps of current. I built one into my test bench area and have used it a lot.

[powerking]

Personally, I'd spring for the extra $30-$40 more for the Hakko 808. Cheap tools do have their place, but when it comes to a tool like this, I want something that is good quality, made by a reputable mfg, will last, and can get parts for.


Tom

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by powerking

personally, i'd spring for the extra $30-$40 more for the hakko 808. Cheap tools do have their place, but when it comes to a tool like this, i want something that is good quality, made by a reputable mfg, will last, and can get parts for.


Tom

+1.

[NoPegs]

I'm with N2IXK on this one. (Although I paid ever so slightly less for mine.) It does a damned good job for the money.

After having a few times where "braid-rationing" was in effect, I decided to dual-wield my 888D and the ZD985 and take a decent crack at point-to-lug assemblies. Basically my technique is use the medium tip (for best vacuum action.) on the 985, heat the joint up with the 888D, then get in there and suck! The 985 can't transfer the heat necessary to most point-to-point connections unless by some miracle you have a lead poking out in the right place, even then not so much. (Designed for board rework.) but once the joint is actively flowing, it does a damned fine job of removing the solder.