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#1
02-20-2013, 12:39 PM
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what next
I have a CTC 5 blonde table top (faux fin on some kind of wood product) and a metal cab CTC-7 faux finish blonde table top.
Since I just got done with a 5 I am tempted to take on the 7 just for something different. The 7 is in very ruff shape. lots of rust on the cab some on the chassis. I am thinking get the chassis going and then if all good maybe just get a sanding disk and go to town on the metal, and then repaint some kind of hammertone grey, or try one of those faux wood finish kits I see for metal house doors (sounds tacky I know). comments are welcome as I have not made up my mind. 
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#3
02-20-2013, 01:20 PM
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Go for the 7! Mine worked beautifully after only a basic recap. Some day I'll go back and do a complete setup (convergence, etc.) but the picture looks so good that I'm not very motivated.
Did that "tabletop" come with spindly wooden screw-on legs like my CTC-11, or was is truly intended only for tabletop use? Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html Last edited by Phil Nelson; 02-20-2013 at 01:31 PM.
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#6
02-21-2013, 01:54 PM
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I vote for the 7, too. I have the same model (the Abington) in faux mahogany. It's also missing the back. When you come to fabricating one for yours, I'd like to compare notes.
Mine also came with no legs and I didn't think that it had the threaded holes to accept them, but if yours does mine probably does too. I'll have to check. Good luck, Clark Last edited by IsthmusTV; 02-21-2013 at 01:58 PM.
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#7
02-21-2013, 02:38 PM
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wow that is a nice looking 7 you have there Clark.
 The CYP22 it came with had an open red Filament (which is when I put it on the back burner). I have an extra CRT for it, just not a dual anode CYP.
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#8
02-21-2013, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Too bad about the open red filament on the CYP. I'm glad that you have a spare CRT. -Clark
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#9
02-23-2013, 02:06 AM
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If you fix up the CTC-7's cabinet nicely and try your spare CRT in it, that may encourage you to work on the CTC-7 chassis and end up with a nice, complete working set. I am trying the same process with a beat-up "boat anchor" Hallicrafters shortwave receiver right now. Restore the cabinet and chassis cosmetics first, then I will definitely want to do the circuitry!
__________________
Chris Quote from another forum: "(Antique TV collecting) always seemed to me to be a fringe hobby that only weirdos did."
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#12
02-24-2013, 10:02 PM
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One of the top hats (mounted on top of the chassis) has corroded off its lead. Will have to dig thru my stash for a power diode before doing anything.
there is also some old looking device that it bolted to the side of the chassis (inside) it looks like some kind of mechanical breaker but I cant see a reset will have to look a bit closer to see what it does. it does connect to the power switch. going to take a look at the schematic and see if I can figure it out. some of the pots on the side are nice and crunchy, yuck.
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#13
02-25-2013, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
That's a time delay relay. It puts resistance in series with the AC input for about 20 seconds to control the inrush. Then you hear a "click" and full voltage is applied. I believe it's some kind of bi-metal deal like in a toaster. -Clark
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#14
02-27-2013, 11:40 PM
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well got started on it, a little, I am not one to bother with how it looks on the inside, but for some reason I feel like breaking with that on this one.
So I started by pulling the very rusted tube shields, they are soaking in CLR. will get some NJ and try that on the rusted fly cage (the fly looks EXCELLENT). Last edited by DaveWM; 02-27-2013 at 11:51 PM.
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