#1
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Gateway FDP2485W DVI in broken
I've had this monitor for maybe 6+ years now? I used to use the DVI input, but a I think a PSU from a computer might have overvolted and fried something to the monitor. That happened 3+ years ago. I've been using VGA since (the only difference I see is no "pixel mapping"), and it does very well with "auto" syncing phase and getting each pixel to where it needs to go. In fact, it does such a tremendous job at it, there really isn't any difference that I can see with the VGA input....and I do photography so color accuracy is a huge deal to me (I calibrate all of my monitors).
The only reason why I care about trying to get the DVI input to work is because I have a new video card that seems to introduce noise when I play games on it. It gets worse over a few minutes of playing and I have to use the "auto" button to re-sync to a clear picture (it looks the same when older TV's were losing a signal from the bunny ears). I've opened it up before to see if there was any fuse or burnt cap for the DVI input, but honestly, I don't know where to look. If need be, I can open it up again (kind of a chore since it's quite heavy) and take photos inside if one would like. To be clear, that is the only problem with it. No power issues, no button issues or anything like that. The DVI input refuses to show any signal. |
#2
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I would be inclined to think there would be a pico fuse near the input somewhere. I know you said you looked for a fuse already though. Did you look for the tiny pico fuses?
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#3
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Just now looking up what a pico fuse is. I didn't look for one of those the first time I checked. If it's green or blue, what symptoms am I looking for? Will it be swollen, burnt, discolored? You say it will be near the input? That makes sense since only that input doesn't work.
Also googling the term "pico fuse" will most PCB's have it labeled something like "FU35" or the like? |
#4
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A pico fuse looks similar to a small resistor. It should be labeled on the board as F xx.
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" I'm gonna fix that one of these days" |
#5
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A picofuse generally looks no different whether blown or not. They need to be checked for continuity with a multimeter.
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Audiokarma |
#6
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Yeah, as was said, unless they get really spiked, they usually have no visual indication that they are blown. Just look for a tiny SMD labeled F1, F2, Fwhatever, etc. Check it with your meter.
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#7
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Well that's just great. I have a multimeter, but I don't think it has a setting to send current through. I could probably borrow my friend's one. Wait....what setting on the MM do you put it at to send current?
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#8
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Set the meter to resistance check, I usually go for the 1000k or so setting. Touch the probes together, it should read "0.00", and probes on either side of a good fuse will read the same. A bad fuse will read "--" or "ol" or whatever your meter reads when the probes aren't touching anything.
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