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  #1  
Old 09-05-2022, 07:49 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Wire looks like its to dress the wire bundle, yoke wires ?
Top cap should pop off.
Cup would need to be drilled off. Do last if needed.
Try removing the cover & running it in a blacked out room to see arc.
Set has a focus divider, white block behind the cage. Those can
crack & arc.

Zeno
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2022, 10:34 PM
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Lain94 Lain94 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Wire looks like its to dress the wire bundle, yoke wires ?
Top cap should pop off.
Cup would need to be drilled off. Do last if needed.
Try removing the cover & running it in a blacked out room to see arc.
Set has a focus divider, white block behind the cage. Those can
crack & arc.

Zeno
I removed the top plastic cap to see the pins where the red and white wires go. First I hear the high pitched CRT whine seconds after powering it on. Then the arcing starts. The arcing is still happening and clearly is jumping between the red and wires across the pins they connect to. Also there appears to be a second spark happening right after the first bright one which is seen flying off bottom part of the metal chassis (near the HV metal box perhaps)

https://imgur.com/a/UgnZ2GO
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  #3  
Old 09-09-2022, 03:36 PM
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There is clearly brown greasy looking crud on the socket.
See if you can clean it up with a swab & 91% alky. Be sure to discharge HV first but the divider probably bleeds it off anyhows.
You may want to search e-bay for a NOS HV cup.

73 Zeno
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  #4  
Old 09-09-2022, 04:14 PM
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Lain94 Lain94 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
There is clearly brown greasy looking crud on the socket.
See if you can clean it up with a swab & 91% alky. Be sure to discharge HV first but the divider probably bleeds it off anyhows.
You may want to search e-bay for a NOS HV cup.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
Will do. Any advice about the metal rivets? Is it avoidable to drill them off or is that they only way if I need to replace the HV cup?
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2022, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lain94 View Post
Will do. Any advice about the metal rivets? Is it avoidable to drill them off or is that they only way if I need to replace the HV cup?
The cup looks like you can easily get away cleaning it. Even if he worst cup I encountered in a 13" Zenith color that had arced through the cup I was able to clean it with goof off drill out the carbon in the hole the arcing made them fill the hole with sensor safe silicone and it's held up for years.

There's several ways to remove rivits such as drilling, grinding the heads off with a Dremel (good for cases where you want to temporarily remove a rivited item), cutting the shaft of the rivit if the item it's securing is gone and it's loose in it's hole.
I'd leave the socket attached for cleaning.
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2022, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
The cup looks like you can easily get away cleaning it. Even if he worst cup I encountered in a 13" Zenith color that had arced through the cup I was able to clean it with goof off drill out the carbon in the hole the arcing made them fill the hole with sensor safe silicone and it's held up for years.

There's several ways to remove rivits such as drilling, grinding the heads off with a Dremel (good for cases where you want to temporarily remove a rivited item), cutting the shaft of the rivit if the item it's securing is gone and it's loose in it's hole.
I'd leave the socket attached for cleaning.
On a side note, does anyone have the schematic for this tv? I have one schematic of it but it is from an old magazine and the resolution of the scan is not so good. I can barely read most if any of the schematic. I am going to do a recap of all the electrolytics while I am working on this tv after I fix the primary issue it has. I am sure the caps are leaky given the age of the tv.
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  #7  
Old 12-11-2022, 02:30 PM
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A bit of an update. I tried using iso to clean up the gunk on the HV cup for the tube and also used a generous amount of super corona dope. I am still having the arcing issue however. I am not sure if this is because of a grounding issue, the voltage being too high, a bad CRT, flyback, transformer, or if there is still some hole somewhere? I am honestly stumped right now.
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