Admiral 20X122 restoration project

[charokeeroad]

I shipped a set just like that one from California to the Mid west. I bought it from a Satinist in Santa Monica. (very strange guy) It arrived without dammage. For sure the one I sent was packed well. I took it all apart and shipped it in three boxes. I was shocked to see your set like that but not surprised to hear that UPS did the shipping or in this case drop shipping. I've had similar experiences like yours where the seller did the packing and shipping fortunately none arrive as badly as your did. My Avatar, the Emerson 612 was shipped from Maryland by UPS and when it arrived the cabinet was pretty well broken. I had to dig the parts out of the bottom of the box full of peanuts. That was an intereresing situation as the seller would not ship or pack. I called a local handy man and asked him to pick up the set and take it to UPS which he did for a small fee. Even UPS can't be guarenteed to pack a set well but if they pack and you purchase the insurance at least you can get your money back. If the seller packs and there's no insurance your basically SOL.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Wow, I had to go back and read all that. I think I restored my 20A1 chassis back in 95 or 96. It was my first and only old TV for many years. Back then it was just me and a copy of Kiver-Television And F-M Servicing (perfect book for learning that set by the way). I don't even think ARF had the TV forum back then? I was really taken up with 1920's radio's for a long time, then it was 1930’s radio…But I've had very fond memories of getting that first TV going since way back then...

Anyhow, I've got you beat on not finishing up projects. That same 20A1 chassis has been setting under plastic in my basement waiting for the cabinet to get finished all these years. Way back when, I had to patch some chips in the Bakelite cabinet with an epoxy and Bakelite powder mix, so I wanted to make sure the epoxy was good and cured before I tried polishing out the finish. To be honest I've been scared of how it's going to turn out, so I've just procrastinated over the situation all these years. I have a mild attention deficit thing going on that doesn't help matters, and it's just really easy to keep jumping to the latest and greatest project.

So congratulations on getting back on this set. I'm sure you'll breeze right through it now with all the experience you've achieved since back in 2009.

[charokeeroad]

Originally Posted by bandersen

Thanks for all the advice. I tested out several products and techniques on those broken bakelite scraps. Here's what I came up with.


Here are the knobs that I got with this set plus a channel changer from another. I'm trying to track down two outer, brass knobs and one inner, brown knob. If anyone has some spares, I'd be happy to purchase or trade for them.




Those outer knobs polish up very nicely, but be careful not to over polish. They are plated, not solid brass. I have another set where they are down to the base, grey metal.

I used Novus #2 plastic cleaner on the knobs. Cleaning out the grid pattern is a real pain. I've used a toothbrush and toothpicks - very tedious!



Here's a 'before'picture of the cabinet. It's dirty, faded and has wax and paint splotches.



First, I cleaned it using some Dawn dish detergent diluted in warm water. Plus a little mineral spirits on the wax and paint.
Next, I'm gently buffing with a slurry of water and Brasso. Throw down some plastic - it's messy. I cleaned off all the Brasso with a clean towel and water and allowed to dry.




Next, Novus #2 fine scratch remover. Use this stuff like paste wax. Keep the rag damp while buffing then allow to dry to a haze. Remove it using a clean rag with short, quick strokes.
As Mr Miyagi would say "Wax on! Wax Off!"




I cleaned the inside too




Finally, I use Magnolia Glayzit. Heed the warning on the can - it will turn your floors into a skating rink

Here it is partially reassembled. It's not quite as dark as I had hoped for, but I think that's as good as it will get short of using stain. I'm happy with it.

Note - the CRT has already been removed. You can read about that here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=235317



I've started poking around the chassis and have all the caps and resistors I should need. There are a bunch of bad caps and fried resistors. The guy I bought it from claimed it worked great

Coming up: Part IV - replacing bad components.

I can get good color correction on bakelite with minwax red mahogany stain and elbow grease.

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by charokeeroad

...If the seller packs and there's no insurance your basically SOL.

Yes indeed - lesson learned. Luckily, it didn't sting too much.

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Wow, I had to go back and read all that. I think I restored my 20A1 chassis back in 95 or 96. It was my first and only old TV for many years. Back then it was just me and a copy of Kiver-Television And F-M Servicing (perfect book for learning that set by the way). I don't even think ARF had the TV forum back then? I was really taken up with 1920's radio's for a long time, then it was 1930’s radio…But I've had very fond memories of getting that first TV going since way back then...

Anyhow, I've got you beat on not finishing up projects. That same 20A1 chassis has been setting under plastic in my basement waiting for the cabinet to get finished all these years. Way back when, I had to patch some chips in the Bakelite cabinet with an epoxy and Bakelite powder mix, so I wanted to make sure the epoxy was good and cured before I tried polishing out the finish. To be honest I've been scared of how it's going to turn out, so I've just procrastinated over the situation all these years. I have a mild attention deficit thing going on that doesn't help matters, and it's just really easy to keep jumping to the latest and greatest project.

So congratulations on getting back on this set. I'm sure you'll breeze right through it now with all the experience you've achieved since back in 2009.

Perhaps that epoxy / powder technique would work on my damaged 20X11 tabletop cabinet

I've restored a couple 20A1 chassis and they're the best of the late 40s Admiral designs IMHO. The use of two chassis gave them plenty of room for extras like dual rectified power supply buses and stagger tuned IF.

Single chassis designs like this 20X1 use the audio output tube as a voltage divider for the second B+ rail and an over-coupled IF circuit. That gives you a more pronounced double-humped response rather than a plateau.

This is the 3rd 20X1 I've restored in the last few months, so yeah, it's very familiar territory now

I have a little recapping left to do in the IF circuits then reinstall the power transformer, yoke and focus coil.
I expect to power it up in a couple days - work permitting.
Those few yellow caps on the left are from when I started a few years ago. I think I'll swap them out for matching white Cornell Dubilier caps.

Originally Posted by charokeeroad

I can get good color correction on bakelite with minwax red mahogany stain and elbow grease.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought stain would effect bakelite much.

[Kevin Kuehn]

I was really amazed at the picture quality on the 20A1. Silly me aligned it using an Eico 360, because that's the sweeper Kiver featured in his 1949 edition book. I can't really recommend that unit.

[bandersen]

I know what you mean. I first tried a vintage Hickok 615 and Jackson TVG-2. Tricky to restore and calibrate let alone use.

Later, I upgraded to an EICO 369 - much nicer. Later still, I lucked into a couple really nice Wavetek sweep gens. They were originally meant for cable equipment I believe, but work very well on TVs

[charokeeroad]

The picture sequence is backward but this is a restoration I did on a Motorola bakelite cabinet some time back using stain.
I used Red Oak here but I think Red Mahogany would give a truer color match.

http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/...20Restoration/

[Kevin Kuehn]

That's a pretty impressive transformation.

I think the key was to first scuff the entire finish with the scotch bright pad(stain won't penetrate well through a waxed or clear finish), then the clear poly replacing the missing original gloss. I've always wanted to try something like dyed Formbys Tung oil, which is basically a phonolic wiping varnish.

[Eric H]

Originally Posted by charokeeroad

The picture sequence is backward but this is a restoration I did on a Motorola bakelite cabinet some time back using stain.
I used Red Oak here but I think Red Mahogany would give a truer color match.

http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/...20Restoration/

That's a nice job, I've used stain with Lacquer on Bakelite but the results are disappointing, Poly makes more sense in this application, replacing Plastic with Plastic!

I'll have to try it on one of my faded sets,

[charokeeroad]

Originally Posted by Eric H

That's a nice job, I've used stain with Lacquer on Bakelite but the results are disappointing, Poly makes more sense in this application, replacing Plastic with Plastic!

I'll have to try it on one of my faded sets,

I looked back on the original thread and refreshed my memory on what I did.
The stain process was simple but the poly was where the trick came in. I finally ended up with an oil based poly in the spray can. For the little extra it cost for the spray can vs brush or air brush it's well worth it. They have figured out the nozel size and pressure right from the start.

[bandersen]

Interesting technique - thanks for sharing.

Maybe we should create a sticky post in the Tech Tips forum for all the bakelite restoration tricks ?

[bandersen]

I finished recapping and popped out the tuner for an overhaul.

It's stamped Oct 5, 1949 which I find a little surprising. I would have thought this model was retired by 1949 in favor of the 24A12 ?

[bandersen]

I've finished the recap and reassembly.


I'll powering it up for the first time later tonight. Right now I have to go get supplies before the snow gets too deep.

[bandersen]

I powered it up with the 5U4 pulled. All the tube filaments are glowing nicely

[bandersen]

I installed the 5U4 and power it up. B+ looks OK, but no sound, raster or HV I'll keep poking around.