#46
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Okay, just purchased a Tektronix 465M Oscilloscope, NIST-certified, Guaranteed & NIST calibrated off ebay. Hopefully it will be here around this time next week. So I guess I'll just change the divider and let her be until the scope arrives. Now you said I need two probes? If so, I'll order another of the one I already have.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#47
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Ok - so basically the bars are stronger when contrast is turned up, which says that at least a good part of it is in the video signal.
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#48
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I guess I should have asked this a long time ago, but which part of the jail bars is not supposed to be there? The light or the dark bars?
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#49
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Regarding all the other questions about your scope, I see you are getting a good one to work with. When you have that, you will be able to use one channel/probe to sync the scope to horizontal and the other to look at various points for your problem. If it is a ground problem, however, you may see the bars change when you hook up the probe ground leads to the chassis or circuit cards, the same as experimenting with clip leads. This could be either exasperating or fun, depending on how you want to think about it! |
#50
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
#51
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Neither. The jail bars are a plus and minus (darker and lighter) (sinusoid) added to the nominal signal. Ideally you would see only the average brightness all across a blank picture.
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#52
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2 probes are an option, your scope will get a trigger signal off whatever you apply to one channel, the second probe is just in case you need to use a separate trigger source, good idea to have for some needs. Be sure you get ones with 1x 10x options and trimmer adjustment for capacitance, this will match impedance properly. Your scope has a square wave test point on its front, attach the probe, and adjust the trimmer to get a nice square wave with no overshoot, or loading (rounding of the square edges). Just for the heck of it, when you just set that tv up to run as normal, and wack it a few times does anything happen to either the sound or picture that would indicate any loose connections, since this is a module set, any indication of disturbance while hitting it may mean you have bad plugs, or connectors on the boards....?
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 09-09-2013 at 05:33 PM. |
#53
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The scope is supposed to come with a calibration certificate. I'll probably keep it afterwards and start scoping anything and everything. I know if I get rid of it, I'll need it. I guess I can use something to tap around on the chassis and modules to see if there's something loose (think I have a drum stick around somewhere). Whacking the set does no good as it's a solid cabinet and only serves to sting my hand.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#54
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One question that doesn't seem to be answered in the previous posts - what is your signal source? Is it a cheapo DVD player, or some sort of RF Modulator? I can get jailbars on any set, tube, solid state, B/W or Color with my cheapo Conar bar-dot generator, so it could be signal source, plain and simple.
Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#55
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Is there something else I can try? I wish there were a broadcast signal I could tune into. I do have a Blonder Tongue Agile Processor. Maybe I can get it to broadcast a signal on a VHF channel and use the good ole rabbit ears.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
#56
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I hope that makes sense.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#57
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If you still haven't changed the Focus Divider I would start with that.
If it's arcing then it's defective, anything defective in the HV circuits has the potential to put interference on the screen, so start with that then look elsewhere if that doesn't help. |
#58
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That is on my list for tomorrow. You wouldn't happen to know how the pink lead is connected in the anode cap, do you? It looks like it is just pushed into the cap through the hole next to the anode lead.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#59
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Is there a screw in the center of the cap on the inside? If so you probably just loosen that screw and pull out the old wire, reverse process to install.
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#60
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jr |
Audiokarma |
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