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#1
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Last post about my convergence
I know there is not such thing as perfect convergence on CRTs, especially older sets, but I need to get closer than I am. I'm used to seeing a little red or blue on edges of images, but they've always been less than an 1/8". What I'm dealing will on the right and left edges are separations of up to a 1/2" and covers 2" on the left side and 6" of the right.
I know it should get better than this. No one would buy a set if the convergence were this bad. Since I've done all the electrolytic caps, could it be a resistor or capacitor on the convergence board? I'm attaching a pic. Don't pay attention to the bottom lines. Those are lined up now. I had then lined up, but made them that way when tried to get the edges better. The sides are still as messed up, but not the bottom center horizontal lines.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#2
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wYn3xLrZj0
again you need a scope to make quick work of this. does the blue horz coil have any effect? |
#3
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Quote:
Since things on the board are pretty interactive, could it be another pot or coil? I know there's one pot that doesn't really cause much movement on the screen. It could be an issue. I did deoxit all of the pots and treat them with fader lube, but it only made them turn better.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#4
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other than checking all the parts its hard with out a scope. feel for cold resistors (esp large ones) same with pots (they get warm), lastly the diode pack may be bad.
This is what I try to avoid part replacement to fix a problem, sorry if it sound negative, it just a hard way to fix things. |
#5
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Quote:
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
#6
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well there is a vert pulse and a Horz pulse so you just setup so you can see them. you bro should know for his scope where those are.
if the blue coil does nothing don't over look the convergence cluster itself, check the coils for continuity where they terminate at the convergence board |
#7
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Davewm has you on the right track. All the waveforms are shown on the
conv socket if you got the sams. Convergence probs are rare, tube zeniths had diode packs go & left blue pots. your biggest hint is if any controls dont work or barely work. And dont forget you often have to go back & forth allot sometimes inc. the middle. BTW the right is always the hardest. 73 Zeno |
#8
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the blue is always out slightly on these zeniths but that is way off.does the blue move at all when you adjust it?if not check solder joints.then go to resistors.doubt if it the diode pack is defective but anything can happen.
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#9
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The blue coil moves the lines up on the right, but then totally messes up the left side. I can get the left pretty close, but then the blue horizontals at the top of screen are off. The only way to get the top horizontal lines converged is to back off the coil and let the right and left get that far out of whack.
There is one pot that doesn't seem to do much at all. There's barely a difference and I should have noted it and figured out what it was supposed to adjust. I don't remember which one it was and will have to go back and start turning them again. I was able to check the resistors in circuit and they read at their values. Not sure how to test the diode pack. Don't think it's an easy removal and I doubt it can be tested in place. I used the ohm setting to check each pot and coil and not were "open". Don't know what else I can check. Gotta get my brother's scope.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#10
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...
Last edited by andy; 12-05-2021 at 07:55 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Quote:
The thing is, the compromise I've made is to allow the right and left to look like crap so I can get the center to look good since it's the main viewing area.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#12
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you have to constantly touch up the static as you adj the dynamic, and I hope you did the purity 1st or you are wasting your time as a purity adj will throw ALL convergence off.
purity center static then the order in the sam on dynamic touch up center as you go. |
#13
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...
Last edited by andy; 12-05-2021 at 07:55 PM. |
#14
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on this model there should be another coil for blue convergence.i believe it is a smaller one,that controls the blue centering.i am almost positive on this one.
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#15
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Yes, there is a blue convergence magnet (with adjustment) and a blue lateral (with adjustment).
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
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