IF CE Manufacturing could make caps for CTC11, any interest? - Videokarma.org TV - Video

TonyP · #1 03-13-2019, 10:19 AM

I had asked CE Manufacturing if they could make caps with the exact specs as the cans used in the CTC11 chassis. they said they could, but need a 50 piece minimum order on each type.

I was thinking of running only the 2 multi-section cans since the single section cans could be made from existing CE cans, just parallel the sections.

But there needs to be at least 50 people interested for them.

I havent even begun to sit downand think how to handle the logisitics.

First hurdle is to see how much interest is there.

They will be made to RCA schematic specs. same value, voltage, temp rating. or so i was told. i asked them if they coudl bump up the working voltage, but i guess they came back with the same specs i gave them, which was the original values.

Yamamaya42 · #2 03-13-2019, 11:56 AM

Unlikely to get that many interested, for the following.
Most out there have different sets and not just the CTC-11 flavor , ( example, I have a 16xl) , and where as the combo caps are similar set type to set type, they are not exactly the same, and most , ( myself for example ) chose to replace the combo caps with new type ( multiple ) hidden under the chassis, while un-hooking the old and leaving them in to keep the orig look.

miniman82 · #3 03-13-2019, 01:33 PM

There's already enough different types of FP style cans to get the job done, only exception is the sets with voltage doublers with the 160uf section. In that case there's still enough room on a 7 thru 11 chassis to tack that value in underneath, which usually leaves other values in the can for other purposes. I see that as a bonus, not a hindrance.

Electronic M · #4 03-13-2019, 05:45 PM

With how much a reproduction can costs I rather restuff the original if appearances are of the essence or just disconnect the originals and install individuals wherever is convenient...It ain't a Mcintosh or Hammond Organ where the audiophools buying it will try to knock a third off the value if the under-chassis don't look like factory with new parts.

Yamamaya42 · #5 03-13-2019, 06:52 PM

example,
https://imgur.com/xDYwQuN
2 of the 80uf caps that i stuck above the main filter coil ( which is hooked to the main LV bridge way at the other end of the chassis ) , stuck in with Electronic Grade Silicone.
The caps they replace are at the other end, unhooked, I have these tucked and hidden all under the chassis

walterbeers · #6 03-14-2019, 09:28 PM

Electrolytic cans that are new are available, however probably not to the exact specs as the original cans. However most likely you can find values that will work perfect in it's place, and look original. I haven't had a lot of luck re-stuffing, and it's quite time taking to do so. I agree it's a lot easier to replace a whole can than in some cases to tack them underneath. Most of the time there is room underneath but in some cases things are so cramped that putting them underneath is almost impossible. Here is a link to a place that has new electrolytic cans hopefully in stock.

https://www.newoldsounds.com/electro...list_limit=all

www.newoldsounds.com

TonyP · #7 03-15-2019, 06:48 AM

I wouldnt have started this thread if the exact values in a new CE can were offered. they are not. I also havent combed through RCA schematics to see if other chassis can use those values. maybe there are others.

Too bad. it is easier to replace the can, than it is to restuff or put under the chassis. do any of you sometimes wonder how your mods will lend themselves to future repairs?

dieseljeep · #8 03-15-2019, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyP

I wouldnt have started this thread if the exact values in a new CE can were offered. they are not. I also havent combed through RCA schematics to see if other chassis can use those values. maybe there are others.

Too bad. it is easier to replace the can, than it is to restuff or put under the chassis. do any of you sometimes wonder how your mods will lend themselves to future repairs?

You'd have to look at the schematics for the later run CTC7 and the CTC 9,10,12 and maybe the 15's and clones. The CTC16 and newer used a bridge rectifier and different values. Also some of the newer clones.

TonyP · #9 03-15-2019, 10:06 AM

its too bad CE cant just make the caps, and offer them up as regular stock. noope. they want 50 piece minimum per can. i figured it would be an idea with some merit. guess not.

dieseljeep · #10 03-15-2019, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyP

its too bad CE cant just make the caps, and offer them up as regular stock. noope. they want 50 piece minimum per can. i figured it would be an idea with some merit. guess not.

Who is CE? Is that the firm that took the Mallory capacitor line?
They should build 3X40mfd@ 450, 80-80@450. etc. They'd sell them by the thousands.

Yamamaya42 · #11 03-15-2019, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Who is CE? Is that the firm that took the Mallory capacitor line?
They should build 3X40mfd@ 450, 80-80@450. etc. They'd sell them by the thousands.

CE Manufacturing, they are one of the few who still make Multi-Section, can types, but they charge $$$ for custom made stuff, not worth it in my view.

Electronic M · #12 03-15-2019, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyP

do any of you sometimes wonder how your mods will lend themselves to future repairs?

Given that electrolytics have only gotten smaller (astonishingly so) over the years so any new individual cap 30 years in the future should fit where the one I installed yesterday is now...Unless the apocalypse comes and those left are dealing with a world where tech was set back 40 years...

Some sets have a good bit of room under chassis where the original cap was and if you spend a buck or two on a 5 terminal strip with one grounded terminal you can mount all your caps for a can to it, solder the ground flange to chassis (or bolt it if you lack a 75W Iron needed for mechanically sound chassis solder joints) and you then have something almost as convenient as changing the can...

On chassis grounded cans it is much easier adding individual caps...There are ground points everywhere on most chassis so just clip the wire at the can, find it's other end clip that too (or unsolder it) and fit a cap there...You may even get better filtering and less noise radiation if the cap is right at the ripple source rather than half a chassis away with a long wire (read noise radiating device) stretched to it. Also almost all new caps with reasonably long leads (not those snap fit ones with 1/4" tabs) have stout enough leads that the leads hold them in place securely.

CTC-15 chassis seem to have a lot of nice terminal strip locations to install caps on (CTC-5s are not bad either) ...I wish I could comment on your eleven but the only roundy color RCAs I haven't worked on are the CTC-7 through CTC-12.

dieseljeep · #13 03-16-2019, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Given that electrolytics have only gotten smaller (astonishingly so) over the years so any new individual cap 30 years in the future should fit where the one I installed yesterday is now...Unless the apocalypse comes and those left are dealing with a world where tech was set back 40 years...

Some sets have a good bit of room under chassis where the original cap was and if you spend a buck or two on a 5 terminal strip with one grounded terminal you can mount all your caps for a can to it, solder the ground flange to chassis (or bolt it if you lack a 75W Iron needed for mechanically sound chassis solder joints) and you then have something almost as convenient as changing the can...

On chassis grounded cans it is much easier adding individual caps...There are ground points everywhere on most chassis so just clip the wire at the can, find it's other end clip that too (or unsolder it) and fit a cap there...You may even get better filtering and less noise radiation if the cap is right at the ripple source rather than half a chassis away with a long wire (read noise radiating device) stretched to it. Also almost all new caps with reasonably long leads (not those snap fit ones with 1/4" tabs) have stout enough leads that the leads hold them in place securely.

CTC-15 chassis seem to have a lot of nice terminal strip locations to install caps on (CTC-5s are not bad either) ...I wish I could comment on your eleven but the only roundy color RCAs I haven't worked on are the CTC-7 through CTC-12.

The CTC12 is very similar to the 15, only with a few different tubes. The flyback is very similar to the 11 fly.

Yamamaya42 · #14 03-15-2019, 09:35 AM

All I know so far is my exp with the CTC-16(x-l)

Modern electrolytic caps are much smaller and better lasting than they were in the 60s, there is no stated rule that the B+ caps MUST be replaced with the EXACT value uf and voltages, nor must they be placed exactly in the same place physically, as long as they have the same connection electronically.
As Electronic M and others has stated, the old can can be stuffed with the needed values or in most cases with values 10%-20% higher uf/voltage and function wont be affected, and since as I mentioned, the newer caps are much smaller, they can fit almost anyplace.
For example, on mine I started from the top of the voltage divider tree and worked down ( checking voltage every step) , first cap replaced, right out of the LV bridge rectifier was 80uf @ 450v now 100uf @500v, same with the next, 30uf @ 450v now a 40uf @500, and so on and on... till all filters replaced,
B+ is measured an stable, old caps still in, but un-hooked, none of the new caps can be seen from above

TonyP · #15 03-16-2019, 09:00 AM

Well, i figured it would be some interest. the price they quoted me each was slightly less than what they retail for at Antique Electronic Supply.

i hate to restuff. i hate trying to fit caps under an already crammed chassis. id rather have the cans that can drop right in. and i rather not have my chassis look like some hack job with rerouted caps, etc.

But i guess the rest of you dont.