Attempting first project - Some questions if I may

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

No need to remove the FP cans from the chassis....Just disconnect the positive terminal leads from the can and it will remain electrically dormant and preserve the original above chassis appearance.

I think I understand what you're saying. Leave it alone, disconnect it from beneath and put the new capacitor underneath. Neat idea. I have also read about rebuilding them and stuffing the new ones inside.

PS...If I forget the NOS Zenith stuff in the picture I will need the following:

1) 150uf-350v, 100uf-350v, 200uf-25v

2) 4uf-350v, 10uf-400v, 20uf-25v

I have been looking at all the major sites they don't seem to have capacitors with these three values each in 1 can. I was looking at that thread where the can went through the roof so I may want to avoid using the old and dried out NOS stuff after all.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by albanks

I think I understand what you're saying. Leave it alone, disconnect it from beneath and put the new capacitor underneath. Neat idea. I have also read about rebuilding them and stuffing the new ones inside.

PS...If I forget the NOS Zenith stuff in the picture I will need the following:

1) 150uf-350v, 100uf-350v, 200uf-25v

2) 4uf-350v, 10uf-400v, 20uf-25v

I have been looking at all the major sites they don't seem to have capacitors with these three values each in 1 can. I was looking at that thread where the can went through the roof so I may want to avoid using the old and dried out NOS stuff after all.

For the most part, having 3+ sections in 1 can is something that died with FP twist lock style cans...It is fine/normal practice to use 3 individual caps to replace one 3 section twist lock. Most twist locks have the can as the common negative to each section. Some capacitance values like multiples of 2,3,4,5 are not made anymore and have been supplanted with 2.2,3.3,4.7,etc. You can fudge the capacitance values a decent bit and be fine. The original parts often had +100%/-50% capacitance tolerance so anything close in value capacitance wise will be fine.

Voltage you can only fudge upwards...The voltage rating of a cap is the max input voltage it can take without going bang(!)...If you replace a 150V with a 200V part the 200V can take more abuse before going bang. If you replace a 150V with a 50V the 50 will probably have ~100V on it and go bang quickly.

[zeno]

For the caps use
1) 100mfd & a 47mfd in parallal 450V
100mfd 450 V
220mfd 50V

2) 4.7MFD 450V
10mfd 450V
22mfd 50V

Thats all using modern values & a little extra on the voltage. Best
way to change is leave the old can in, Cut off wires & use a terminal strip.
Mount the new stuff close to the old ! Here is the style strip.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...terminal-strip

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Notimetolooz]

Not too long ago I discovered that Mouser carries solder lug terminal strips by Keystone. I was surprised to see a vintage type of part there.
They have many versions with different number of lugs and in different arrangements. I've also gotten them from Radio Daze.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...HpkXpfvzp08%3d

A little hard to find on Mouser, search under "Keystone", terminals, lug terminals, terminal strips, solder type.