Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

The hourglasing may also be from a large line transformer too near to the CRT...If you got one near the set move it away a few feet if you can.

No line transformer near the CRT.

[Crist Rigott]

Tomorrow I should have my HV probe for my VTVM. Only then will I know what kind of HV I have.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Tomorrow I should have my HV probe for my VTVM. Only then will I know what kind of HV I have.

I have the same model Knight-Kit VTVM, bought and built in 1962. I never had the HV probe.
The meter still works great.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I have the same model Knight-Kit VTVM, bought and built in 1962. I never had the HV probe.
The meter still works great.

Cool! The probe is the Knight-Kit probe for the KG-625.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I have the same model Knight-Kit VTVM, bought and built in 1962. I never had the HV probe.
The meter still works great.

I did change the original probes with an Eico Uniprobe, much more convenient.
About 20 years ago, I replaced the "C" battery and rechecked the calibration.

[Electronic M]

It looks like they broke flush...
If you can CAREFULLY chip enough glass away from the leads to have something to solder to then you can use the really fine phono hook up wire Rat Shaq sells toconnect to the stub....I've had success with that method, but it takes a high watt iron and speed to get a good joint, without cracking the glass.

[WISCOJIM]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

It looks like they broke flush...
If you can CAREFULLY chip enough glass away from the leads to have something to solder to then you can use the really fine phono hook up wire Rat Shaq sells toconnect to the stub....I've had success with that method, but it takes a high watt iron and speed to get a good joint, without cracking the glass.

I've had luck doing the same with a Dremel rotary tool to carefully grind the glass away.

.

[dtvmcdonald]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

I've had luck doing the same with a Dremel rotary tool to carefully grind the glass away.

.

So have I, as I described earlier. BUT PLEASE ... don't use it on a power tool.
Dangerous to your CRT!

Do it right ... go to store like Lowes or Menards and buy a nice, new
DIAMOND encrusted tool of suitable shape. I used a cutoff disk. And use
it BY HAND. Slow but safe.

However those wires look very close to being long enough as is.

If they stick up at all, they are long enough. Clean them with #0000
steel wool or fine sand paper. Tin them. Then solder on tinned #30 or so
wire ... I get it from #22 tinned stranded wire. Finally stabilize them
using sensor-safe silicone. Make sure they are long enough to go throush
the base pins.

With ordinary care, your tube will live just fine. Don't worry about breaking an extra wire ... I broke a filament wire on one of my 5BP4s fixing
a broken deflection plate pin, and it works fine.

[Crist Rigott]

I managed to tack on some wires with alligator clips on one end. Then I tested the CRT.

Viola! I didn't take any time to do any adjusting of the picture.

[Crist Rigott]

Thanks guys for the tips on fixing this CRT. Seeing it does test good with the wires hooked up I'll try and save this thing. Stay tuned.

[Eric H]

The Focus wire could probably be fixed with some conductive glue (rear defroster glue for instance) since it carries little current, the heater otoh will probably need a more direct connection.

[Electronic M]

Nice work. The coil method for the new wire is what I do too.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Nice work. The coil method for the new wire is what I do too.

Thank you.

[Crist Rigott]

I put the base back on before I went to bed last night. I used the same sensor safe silicone. I then soldered the wires to the pins. Cleaned up the pins and we are ready to go.

I hooked the CRT back up to the TV and success!

[Crist Rigott]

I added a 10 ohm 25W resistor to the filament string. The filament string is for 115vac and my wall outlets provide 124vac. I thought that the 124vac would be a bit too much for the filament string, hence the resistor. The filament string is now at 117vac using my wall outlet. I used such a big resistor because I had one on hand and also I like to way oversize these things.