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Old 03-16-2019, 09:00 AM
TonyP TonyP is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Well, i figured it would be some interest. the price they quoted me each was slightly less than what they retail for at Antique Electronic Supply.

i hate to restuff. i hate trying to fit caps under an already crammed chassis. id rather have the cans that can drop right in. and i rather not have my chassis look like some hack job with rerouted caps, etc.

But i guess the rest of you dont.
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:55 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6,576
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Given that electrolytics have only gotten smaller (astonishingly so) over the years so any new individual cap 30 years in the future should fit where the one I installed yesterday is now...Unless the apocalypse comes and those left are dealing with a world where tech was set back 40 years...

Some sets have a good bit of room under chassis where the original cap was and if you spend a buck or two on a 5 terminal strip with one grounded terminal you can mount all your caps for a can to it, solder the ground flange to chassis (or bolt it if you lack a 75W Iron needed for mechanically sound chassis solder joints) and you then have something almost as convenient as changing the can...

On chassis grounded cans it is much easier adding individual caps...There are ground points everywhere on most chassis so just clip the wire at the can, find it's other end clip that too (or unsolder it) and fit a cap there...You may even get better filtering and less noise radiation if the cap is right at the ripple source rather than half a chassis away with a long wire (read noise radiating device) stretched to it. Also almost all new caps with reasonably long leads (not those snap fit ones with 1/4" tabs) have stout enough leads that the leads hold them in place securely.

CTC-15 chassis seem to have a lot of nice terminal strip locations to install caps on (CTC-5s are not bad either) ...I wish I could comment on your eleven but the only roundy color RCAs I haven't worked on are the CTC-7 through CTC-12.
The CTC12 is very similar to the 15, only with a few different tubes. The flyback is very similar to the 11 fly.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:49 PM
Phil Phil is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 59
I join those who hate/won't bother restuffing capacitors, there is no way I would mess with that, not to mention, I can't imagine how you would do it and still have it looking factory. On a couple of sets I've been working on recently I had new can caps made by They produced exactly what I needed, at a price similar to the CE cans and delivery was in less than one week of submitting a quote request. For some reason (blind prejudice) they have been trashed on here because they produce a few capacitors for audio equipment, although there main focus is replacement caps for ham radio equipment.
I think they are an excellent source for such parts. It is very unlikely you will find 50 people who are restoring a ctc-11, or whatever particular model.
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:27 PM
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damen damen is offline
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Would be nice if some company offered a "standard" size empty can with a four connection terminal board on the bottom with a can that screwed or snapped on so we could install what ever caps we wanted ourselves.
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:35 PM
TonyP TonyP is offline
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Ive been saying the same think about the empty can for years.
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:18 AM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fernandina Beach, FL
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Here is a thread that I started on the AudioKarma site with pictures in June of 2012. It really isn't all that difficult and the results are excellent. The first one takes some time to get used to but it just works as they say.

Whether I restuff or place a terminal and use discrete capacitors depends on the "value" of the item being repaired. Restuffing those paper multi-section electrolytic capacitors can be a challenge. I have not tried it yet but have many awaiting the perfect way without destroying it. Read down through the post because there are many suggestions by other members.

What is important to me is the steel "common" ring. They are almost always destroyed when you disassemble the capacitor. I have quite a few NOS electrolytic capacitors and I just cut one open to "steal" the unused steel ring. Also, NOS capacitors come with a new phenolic and steel mounting plate as well (usually).

The first mistake that I made when rebuilding the first capacitor was drilling out the rivets on the Scott amplifier. If you have an NOS capacitor to get the steel ring out of, you can just remove all connections and then straighten out the tabs. If one breaks, no worries. Then, you just remount the newly rebuilt capacitor in the phenolic ring.

I hope all of this makes sense. It sure makes for a nice looking job and after the first one, it will take less than an hour to do. Remember, you don't have to fill up the capacitor with tar or wax. Just support the new electrolytic capacitors with something so that they don't flop about. And, there is no real need to make the inside of the old can spotlessly clean. Who will see it? Does it matter? Well, of course not.

The link:
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