#16
|
||||
|
||||
CT 11 in New York City
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Buy this one, It's in my way.
Last edited by eberts; 10-07-2012 at 12:48 AM. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Aww, man...(Slobber, slobber...Drool, drool...)
__________________
Benevolent Despot |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
I'll buy it, where are you located?
__________________
My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
Audiokarma |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Yes they do, my Grandfather was a TV repairman, he had all the coolest stuff. TVs everywhere! Drool... I wish I could have gotten to know him better, he passed away when I was very young
__________________
My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Brian |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
How do I adjust the HO cathode current?
|
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Also, does anybody happen to know the part number (or any identifying number) of the Flyback for a CTC-11? By the way I've already replaced the 3A3 HV rect. and the damper. I haven't replaced the 6BK4 regulator yet. Could that be it? And if I need to get a new picture tube is there a source for these? It's a 21FJP22.
|
#25
|
||||
|
||||
There's not a real source for these CRTs. You'd have to end up pulling it from another set or have it rebuilt by hawkeye (expensive)
If it still has good grayscale and doesn't bleed like crazy on bright colors - its probably ok. You can check the 6BK4, but if its weak or bad usually the dimness is accompanied by blooming and shrinking depending on the demand for brightness. Checking the cathode current requires a good ammeter, some insulated probes, and a careful hand. Disconnect the cathode lead from the HO tube. if you don't know what that is look at receiving tube manual. Then connect the ammeter between the cathode pin of the HO tube and the disconnected lead. Should be somewhere between 200 and 210 millamperes. I think there was also a test insturment available at the time that allowed you to take it from the top cap - but DON'T TRY THAT WITH A NORMAL METER! You might also get ahold of a good high quality HV probe and see what the HV is at the 2nd anode of the CRT. Don't neglect the video section. have you checked tubes there yet? anything weak in the IF or video amplifier/output stages will cause weak contrast and dim pictures.
__________________
Jordan |
Audiokarma |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
very nice ct 11 in the city
|
#27
|
|||
|
|||
The Horizontal output cathode current is right around 200ma. So I guess it's okay. But how would I adjust it if it weren't okay? I had a 6BK4 pull kicking around so I put it in. No more "blooming" but the picture still takes about 15 minutes to get bright and it doesn't seem to get as bright as it did with the other (older/weaker?) 6BK4. I have a new one on it's way. But I still suspect that the original suspicions were correct. It needs a new CRT. So what to do now?
|
#28
|
||||
|
||||
The cathode current is controlled by the Horiz efficiency coil. There is a coil mounted to the board near the Horiz output tube. This coil when your VOM is connected inline to the lead soldered to the chassis near the tube will measure the cathode current.
As for your CRT, Scotty at Hawkeye in Iowa is about your only choice to rebuild your original tube, he does great work. Otherwise wait to see if a tube comed up here in AK, or search ebay, sometimes you will see them from time to time. But all in all you are not out of luck. Jpdylon gave you a great description of how to test the HO current and there are alot of knowladgable peeps on this site. I learned alot from these guys so far!
__________________
Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
|
|