#31
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah, just gotta be sure C5 (the feedback cap) remains tied to its junction with C6 when swapping things.
|
#32
|
||||
|
||||
"Tube tester? I don't have to show you no stinkin' tube tester!"
At Murri's Electronics, the man says, "I put my tube tester in storage. Only needed to use it a couple of times a year. You should try A-Gem." A-Gem Supply is the place with the bad tube tester.
On reading Old Coot88's comments about very low voltage at pin 8--well, it does consistently read either 8 mV or -8 mV. Questions: From the data--voltages, resistance--is there any indication that either the tube or the coil is bad? Please identify for me high impedance/low impedance windings and which is primary/secondary. Fortunately I followed Phil's advice to not solder the coil connections until the thing actually works. In fact, I've gone one step beyond: I'm inclined to buy another tube and coil, revert to Phil's original design, and rewire it as if starting from scratch. That will wait until I open the Atwater Kent 37 and find out what I need for it. Until next time, thanks much, and as my old professor said, "When you hear hoofbeats, don't look for zebras." - Winky |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If the coil shows good solid continuity on the ohmeter with no intermittency it is probably good. Quote:
According to Phil's schematic, the primary is shown as lugs 3 and 4, and the secondary is shown as lugs 1 and 2. This appears to be backwards from the way it's been getting hooked up. Maybe Phil could have an eyeball at it and see if a little switchamaroo in the labeling mighta snuk in. In truth, i was trying to devise a circuit that'd conform to the coil lugs' labeling shown in the schematic, while keeping the high impedance winding in the tank circuit. Last edited by old_coot88; 08-23-2011 at 08:17 AM. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|