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Crystalac Wood Grain Filler
I don't want to beat this to death. I know it's been addressed before and that many restorers have great success with a variety of methods and products. All I've heard about Crystalac is, "Yeah, I use it and it works." or, "Yeah, I used it and it didn't work."
Last year I bought some Crystalac grain filler. I wanted to achieve the enviable glass-like lacquer finish on a Philco console, and I'd read some positive comments on the product. The most attractive quality was that, being crystal-clear, you didn't have to be concerned about the shade of the filler. It didn't work. I quit trying to use it on the Philco console. But last month when I started the finish on an Atwater Kent Model 30, I tried it again. And again. And again. I tried thinning it and thickening it; applying to a wetted surface and a dried surface; rubbing it into the surface; pressing it into the pores; varying the time between applications and so on. The instructions say only, "Wipe it on and trowel it off, sanding between coats." The end result is that if you put on at least eight coats, then you might get a smooth surface. But I get the same result with eight coats of lacquer, sanding between coats. My curiosity led me to take a closer look the wood grain and fillers. (Note here that some prefer to use the term "pores" instead of "grain." In my opinion, neither one is accurate, but we know what they mean and it doesn't make any difference what you call it.) The AK Model 30 is solid mahogany--no veneers. At least I think it's mahogany, so I looked at some cross-sections of mahogany veneer. This is a "processed" veneer--very thin with a paper-like backing--which hasn't been sanded (blue dye on the surface): As shown here, when the veneer is cut with the grain, then you're opening the tubules longitudinally, leaving irregular slit-like openings of varying lengths. In another cross section, you can see how the tubes on the surface are opened. I added blue dye to some Crystalac and tried several methods of application, then examined the finished surface and cross sections of mahogany veneers. I found negligible evidence of Crystalac filling any pores. This is one of the rare instances which showed Crystalac actually filling a pore: I thought that the filler was supposed to flow into the pores. Now I realize that the pores are actually filled with fine particulates which come from either sanding or from solids suspended in a liquid paste filler. Maybe most everybody already knew that, but these photos illustrate what we're actually trying to fill. For me, Crystalac as a filler is a loser. BUT!...it is excellent for filling cracks, gouges, joint separations, and the like. It dries quickly--multiple thick coats can be applied quickly--it doesn't shrink, and it is crystal-clear. This is the solid-mahogany AK 30 with the joints filled with Crystalac, then lacquered: You can see the defect through the Crystalac, but the surface is perfectly level. With no interruption of light reflection, it has a more attractive, natural appearance than a colored filler.
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Winky Dink Damn the patina, Full speed ahead! Last edited by Winky Dink; 03-06-2015 at 10:15 PM. Reason: Fix what I just screwed up |
#2
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Glad to see I'm not the only one who desires to know all the damned reasons every once in a while. Good job!
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