#16
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Also remember that an engineer specified that cap and it's temperature coefficient for that spot on the board. As to sync, have you replaced any AFC diodes? If not, we always replaced them as a preemptive measure. You can use any 1N914, 1N3064, 1N4148, or similar switching diode. Cheap, and good insurance against a call-back. As to the vertical hold control, I have many Striptrols, and about 30-40 New-in-package ones for GE. I'll check the part number in my Sams and see if I have one - same story, yours for postage only. I've got two TV shops AND a distributor's GE inventory (all post '65 parts...), so I'm set for specific GE parts. I long ago got rid of the generic stuff - caps, CRTs, resistors, crystals, lamps, fuses and non-GE marked semiconductors...
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#17
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the only diode (read: solid state diode) in this set is the video detector. There is a full-wave rectifier in the A-part of the 8B10 compactron that's labeled as the "Horiz AFC" and it tests pretty strong, and all of the components around it are in spec.
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#18
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I'm also sending this shaft to replace the vertical hold shaft - the striptrol (Lin, Ht, Hold) comes apart with the bending of about 6 or 8 tabs, and the broken shaft can be replaced. Centralab, Stackpole and CTS all made them, and there are subtle differences, so the shaft has a 50/50 chance of fitting your striptrol.
Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:39 PM. |
#19
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You missed the B+ rectifier diode off the powerline and the UHF tuners also usually had a mixer diode.
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#20
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...and you missed the zener......
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
Audiokarma |
#21
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It's been a while since I've updated this thread, thought I'd bring everyone up to speed on things. I changed the lone ceramic/paper-wax capacitor on the HV side. Still getting some horizontal warp on high contrast images (even with a weak signal) and have yet to find its cause. I have not performed an alignment yet, so far it yields visible lines up to 3.0MHz on a multiburst bar sweep pattern. Would an alignment produce a higher response?
Also I've noticed that the HV hum is EXTREMELY LOUD. Is this normal or is the flyback being over driven? lastly, thank you very much, Findm-Keepm, for the parts! So far I've installed the antenna and the UHF knob, but yet to install the V-hold knob as the "striptrol" is an absolute pain to get into x.x |
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