Silvertone 6220 parts

[Cruiseomatic]

I know there is a lot of aftermarket parts dealers for Zenith or Philco even Admiral but what about Silvertone? My 6220 is undergoing surgery next to my Emerson 535. This Silvertone is in bad shape. The chassis was covered in Rust and about everything imaginable so I had a ton of work to do to it. Rust disolver and sanding got it all off but now its shiney in some places and not in others. Wish I could strip the chassis down to nothing and completely sand down to bare steel then hit it with some clear coat on top. Point is, I need a few parts and have no idea where to look. I need the tuning arm, Dial sticker, Dial face, Grille cloth, Dial cord, part number list, a better schematic than what Nostalgia Air has, Speaker, Power cord, and Battery packs. Thats all I can think of for right now. I found the sams for it but not sure if it is the right one. Multiple were listed. I would like both radios done by winter but if I can't find a parts supplier for this Silvertone that ain't happening. I would LOVE to get this Silvertone done a.s.a.p. because my soon to be 82 y/o grandfather gave it to me. I think it would make him happy if I could get it restored to like new condition AND working. Where are some good places ya'll would recommend?
Thanks.


Edit:
Here a link to the picture I currently have of it. If anyone is still wondering about the mid '70s set, I haven't got around to getting any more pictures of it although she is done.

http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/p...ertone%206220/

This cap was leaking so badly, When I got it on the bench it looked wet. Rubbed it and a very soft fluid that had the tint of transmission fluid was on it and the adjacent resistors. Should also give you northerners an idea how hot it is here. I had it stored inside a bus and it was out of direct sun. Cap got so hot that it began to melt. And yes, I immedenitly washed my hands after doing that.
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/DSCF1730.jpg


First picture and you'll see what I had to get through and where it is now.

[Reece]

Looking at the Nostalgia Air schematic and the parts you have, you should be able to reasonably complete this set. You can remove the tubes and carefully mask the sockets, the IF transformers, etc., and spray the chassis with paint. Aluminum may be too shiny. Some use a shade of gray, or, looking around, you may find a sort of galvanized metal finish paint that is more like the original chassis color.

On Nostalgia Air is the diagram for restringing the dial cord. For cord you can use woven fishing line (not monofilament) which is about the same thing as the original cord: does not stretch. Available at WallyWorld or maybe right out of your tackle box.

For a speaker, any permanent magnet (PM) speaker of the proper size will do. The speaker socket is the RCA type phono jack on the chassis. If you don't have a loose plug for it let me know, I'll send you one. What size speaker does it take? Measure in the case diagonally from screw to screw: is it round or oval?

Don't know what you mean by "tuning arm." Please explain.

Grille cloth can be ordered from Radio Daze or other sources. If you Google "Silvertone 6220" images you'll see several pictures of your radio to get an idea of what the original cloth looked like. You may not be able to get the exact pattern, but something similar.

As to the paper capacitors, I'd just copy the mfd. and volt information off each one and make a list. Generally we use all 630 volt caps these days which will replace all caps of lower voltage, too. You may be able to get these locally in Houston or Radio Daze and other sources have them. I'd bet your resistors are OK in such a low voltage radio but check with your ohmmeter. Check primary and secondary of the output transformer with ohmmeter to make sure neither is open.

The dial scale is going to be more tough. You may just have to carefully clean it up and use as is. If the clear dial cover is missing, you can cut a scrap of acrylic to fit it. Often hardware stores that repair screens and storm doors have small pieces. Available in 1/16" and 1/8" thicknesses.

Battery packs like this radio used are not made commercially any more. It is possible to purchase custom made packs in original-looking cardboard covers with modern batteries inside connected up in series, etc. This tends to be expensive. Another cheaper way is to snap ten dollar store 9 volt batteries together + to - to make up the 90 volts required for the B battery. The A battery can be two D cells connected in parallel, not series, to provide 1.5 volts but with more time capacity due to the parallel arrangement. You can get a 2-cell battery holder from Radio Shack but you must rewire and relabel it to put the cells in parallel. Still another way, more practical these days, would be to provide a plug-in power supply that makes A and B voltage out of 120 volts. These are also for sale or you can make them up. They generally fit in the same space where the original battery fit in the radio.

[Cruiseomatic]

I'll just leave the chassis the way it is since no one will see it.

The diagram on Nostalgia Air is'nt that great. I'm having a hard time understadning it.

The speaker is round and I think I have an old RCA plug around here somewhere but I want to try to replace this with one made specifically for the radio if I can.

The grille cloth is right but stained and brittle. I looked around and alot of places are more for the more popular brands. I'll check out Radio Daze.

The current caps, Half of them no longer have the values on them or unledgeable and like I said, I'm having a hard time understanding or reading the schematic I already have.

Tuning Arm is the shaft turned to tune a station in. Might be also called a dial arm? Mines shows no sign of rust or damage but froze up solid.

I'll check hardware stores for the dial glass.

And as far as the battery goes, I've put 10 9 volt batteries together. Had 10 Everready's clipped in series giving me around 87 volts.

The dial cord may be reusuable. I'm not sure. Looks worn.

As far as resistors go, I replace them even if current ones are still good. Reason is that if I'm already in the chassis replaceing caps, Why not do the resistors while I'm there and get two things done at once? They're old and will need it anyway. Does'nt hurt and cheap insurance.

But even if I get new dial glass, I still need the dial sticker. It was gone from the begining. I do have pictures of it but it was falling off the backing which is why I went ahead and sanded it off to prep for a new one.

Thanks Reece

[bob91343]

I have the Sams Photofact for that model, dated Dec. 1946. It should be a good performer, with an RF stage before the converter, but not much audio power. The dial string is a bit convoluted. It ran on 90V and 1.5 V in a single combination battery pack. The PM speaker connected with a simple plug.

[bandersen]

[QUOTE=Cruiseomatic;3012143]... The current caps, Half of them no longer have the values on them or unledgeable and like I said, I'm having a hard time understanding or reading the schematic I already have. ... /QUOTE]

I can read some of them from your photos. The rest may be facing against the chassis or obscured by wax. Try rotating them around or scraping a little wax off.

For example in the closeup of the big cap there are a couple 0.01 @ 200v. Also a 0.00 something @ 400v - it's covered by a resistor.

[Cruiseomatic]

Originally Posted by bandersen

I can read some of them from your photos. The rest may be facing against the chassis or obscured by wax. Try rotating them around or scraping a little wax off.

For example in the closeup of the big cap there are a couple 0.01 @ 200v. Also a 0.00 something @ 400v - it's covered by a resistor.

Yeah some do still have the value on them but are they the correct value? I don't go by whats in the radio, Only by whats in the schematic. On the one I have the print is VERY low res and fuzzy. I'm going to try and get the sams for it. But thanks for the suggestions. I appoligize if I sound "cocky". Just saying how I would LIKE to do the restoration. I like to stay as original as possible, Like whats been said in many restoration videos, "Just because it's in there and works when you start the restoration, Doesn't mean its right and the cap was'nt one a shop had laying around and threw it in there."
Thanks for the help guys. I do plan on starting to put up my own restoration videos once I get the cable for my camcorder although they will be very boring to all the experts here. I'm here to learn from ya'll and try my own.

[Reece]

For the frozen-up tuning shaft, put some penetrating oil, WD-40 or whatever is your favorite for freeing up frozen fittings and let it soak for a day or two. Then try heating up the bushing through which the shaft goes with a good-sized soldering iron or carefully with a propane torch. The idea is to expand the bushing slightly away from the shaft. Once it moves you can get some more oil in there.

If the capacitors look like the originals, which they do from the pictures, you can safely go by their values. Even if something is a little off from the schematic, the radio did work and left the factory like that, and often changes were made during production.

Finding an original or similar speaker is important for earlier radios with field coils, but a small PM speaker in a post-war table set would have been pretty generic.

[Cruiseomatic]

Its soaking in PB Blaster until thursday. I now see what you're saying about the speaker. Nothing makes that one special. Hell, I did an ohm reading and it was in the 30's range. I have one out of my '89 F150 that I'm going to put in for a temporary one. It's holding around 6 ohms so it should work.

[Reece]

I may be able to reproduce the dial scale for you on heavy silver paper. The numbers wouldn't be embossed like the original, of course, but they would be about the same tall font. I could do the little Silvertone logo in the right spot, too. In order to do this I'd need to know the center-to-center measurement between the two bottom rivets that show in your picture no. 2, and also the measurement between the lower rivets and the upper ones. I can scale this up from the picture to be able to get the right size.

Also it looks like there is a "step" below the numbers: measurements needed from top rivet down to step, depth of step, from step down to bottom rivet.

[Electronic M]

I believe that I have that set or the multiband version of it in storage.
Mine is rough, but is still good for parts. I believe that I replaced the paper caps in mine.
I know where it is, and if I can get at it I will snap some photos.
If you want any parts of it or the whole thing; I'm sure that we can make a deal.

Good luck on your restoration.

Tom C.

[bob91343]

I scanned the Photofact for that model but, due to copyright considerations, I don't think I should post it. Further, there doesn't seem to be a manual library for this site.

[Cruiseomatic]

Reece, Give me a couple of days and I'll have those measurements for you.

EM, I will PM you about that.

Bob, There is nothing wrong with emailing the file and you're right. There is no library here but thats because there are tons of sites like Nostalgia Air that have more schematics than any one person will ever need. It is vastly complete but they don't have EVERY radio ever built. I have a Delco 981968 that I need a schematic for but they don't have it.

[Reece]

Your Delco diagram is on the following site. You'll have to download per instructions and you'll need the special viewer, which they list there, too.

The way the site works is you click on the index and look first in the index for your set, then go back to the original page I list here and open the corresponding year volume. Your Delco is in 1959 on pages 18 and 19. Apparently it's a set for a Buick. Sometimes instead of a year the index will indicate a volume number. Count from the beginning of the yearly downloads to get the volume number. The first group of several years together is volume 1. Then starting with the individual years are volume 2, 3, etc.

http://makearadio.com/beitmans/index.php

Edit: By the way, I looked up your Silvertone 6220 and it's in the 1946 volume of the above site on page 120, and very clear, easy to read. Another By the Way note, of academic interest, perhaps, the 101 that starts the model number of this radio (on the rear chassis tag) means it was made by Colonial, which Sears had purchased at one point.

[Cruiseomatic]

Thanks Reece. Got the schematic. Really helps!