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#1
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Thanks. Did that last night. Only had to cut six (clearly colored) leads from the yoke. Yoke, ion trap, etc. stays on the neck. The yoke is loose anyway.
- Henry (formerly of Indian Head, Silver Spring, Baltimore, Columbia, and Frederick)
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Winky Dink Damn the patina, Full speed ahead! |
#2
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Sometimes if the yoke does not slide off easily over the base cap, a little gentle heat from a hairdrier is helpful.
jr Last edited by jr_tech; 02-01-2018 at 02:08 PM. |
#3
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Wrapping a thin card stock shim around the glass over the bakelite base can also help.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#4
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Done That Already
Removing the CRT with the accoutrements attached was simple. Aquadag coating (or whatever) looks intact.
Cleaned up the chassis a bit, and now I'm checking continuities through all coils. The yoke checks out OK.
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Winky Dink Damn the patina, Full speed ahead! |
#5
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A Little More Help, Please
Below is a photo of the wiring of one of the 'lytics. It appears to be factory-wired, but I can't reconcile it with the Sams schematic, parts list, and the info stamped on the can.
So, please tell me that I'm reading it wrong or, if the schematic and the wiring disagree, which I should do--follow the schematic or duplicate what's already there. Thanks, Henry.
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Winky Dink Damn the patina, Full speed ahead! |
Audiokarma |
#6
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Quote:
The 6AS5 audio output tube is used a voltage divider as well. The voltages shown are way off. The voltage on the cathode should be at least 100 volts or more. Just wire it the way you find it! It worked before! |
#7
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kvflyer, AKA Don Cavey. Worked C&P Telephone, Columbia, Arbutus, Cockeysville, Manor, Essex, etc. Now retired in for 15 years ... Fernandina Beach, Florida! No snow to shovel.
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