#31
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Quote:
I'll PM you soon with the cost of the tube and the shipping. |
#32
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sent you my address in PM.
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#33
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Just ordered a bunch of electrolytic caps for the set, not sure when Mouser will ship them out, they still seem to be lagging.
I'm still quite surprised that the chassis was able to power up and work as much as it did w/o being touched, but there is signs of it being worked on before, especially in the IF and Vert, areas, kind of sux that the osc transformer is toast, I wonder how often they go bad? https://i.imgur.com/CejiNie.jpg Plate voltage on the vert output was OK, but nothing going into the grid. Had 0 volts on the plate of the Vert Osc, but 200v on the red wire going into the x-former. 1k between YEL/GRN infinite between RED/BLUE, DEAD! Was not too hard to find a NOS stancor a-8122. But anyway, before I do anything to it, I'm gonna take pics of every inch of the chassis.
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#34
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interesting...
the heater is still intact https://i.imgur.com/W9A88bN.jpg NOT a original coil... https://i.imgur.com/bSHhtej.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GQ3r6VR.jpg SOME new caps CRAPPY solder work,, that power resistor looks like HELL. https://i.imgur.com/iFRK3UY.jpg scribbling in the IF? https://i.imgur.com/iFRK3UY.jpg WHERE THE HELL IS THE COVER TO THE TUNER? https://i.imgur.com/0QAyWVe.jpg the plastic for the numbers is rotten too https://i.imgur.com/HONXwg2.jpg top view https://i.imgur.com/g9irgEL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cnzgqFS.jpg VERY dusty FBT looks good https://i.imgur.com/X0P1niO.jpg But... WHERE THE HELL IS THE COVER FOR THE HV CAGE??? are you trying to blast people with x-rays? and notice 2 FUSES? if you are going to replace a blown fuse, TAKE THE BAD ONE OUT IDIOT!! obviously who ever worked on this before had no love for the set... gonna have to take it into the garage and give it a good cleaning.
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=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために Last edited by Yamamaya42; 03-22-2021 at 07:07 PM. |
#35
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finding more bad parts already
open peaking coils https://i.imgur.com/GQ3r6VR.jpg you can seem them here, they are cracked open and grey I saw that they had exposed coils and are WIDE open.. only the resistors show when tested. https://i.imgur.com/LR4GpTs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5jNjKAZ.jpg for L39 i found a NOS NIB J.W. Miller 6154 200 uH Filter Choke Peaking Coil 3/8 could not find an exact list replacement for L36 so i got a Merit TV-183 Peaking Coil 180 mH 10 ohm seemed close enough, as they listed 180 as other replacements.
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Audiokarma |
#36
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Even MORE things BAD!
1.1k 22 watts candohm resistor OPEN! gonna put a 25 watt in the sucker
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=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために Last edited by Yamamaya42; 03-22-2021 at 11:12 PM. |
#37
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one of the 2 bad peaking coils, these are NOT original coils, they have been replaced before, and have gone to crap...
https://imgur.com/rIOEEXw
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#38
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You're are seeing a lot of crappy repair work that was done in the 50s-70s. They could do haphazard work and still get the TV to work OK. I've seen a lot of missing HV covers. Some repairmen just didn't put them back on, especially if they were difficult to re-install. Based on the voltages involved with B&W TVs, there wasn't that much of an X-ray hazard. The cage was mainly to contain the high voltages. It's also possible that the customer didn't want the TV repaired after the repairman gave them an estimate and the repairman just slapped it back into the cabinet, thinking that the TV would never be repaired.
Littlefuse made a fuse holder which allowed to you piggyback a new pigtail-less fuse onto a pigtail fuse. I used them some when I didn't have the exact value fuse in the pigtail configuration. |
#39
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I have seen those clip in fuses before, but what was done here was a pigtail fuse soldered over a burned out one, they did not take the time to remove it and neatly put it in.
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#40
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the tuner is is very bad shape, been sprayed a LOT and greasy, the wires in is are starting to lose their covering, I'm afraid to touch it.
IF section is also borked, I did a spot check of s few resistors 10% ones ones that should have been 47 ohms tested around 56, If i try to replace, I'm not sure if i will be able to tune in anything cause of the tuner and/ or alignment. I SORT of can hear something when changing channels, but VERY weak. IF all else fails, A/V input.
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Audiokarma |
#41
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Time is money and if a repair man was doing work for a flat rate they sometimes did sloppy stuff to work fast....I can't tell you how many sets I've repaired where decades before me some tech reinstalled half or less of the chassis, back cover, HV cover, etc, etc screws and chucked the rest.... I've even seen sets where the chassis was barely hanging onto the cabinet (good reason to pull the back before loading a console for transport).
It bugs me but hasn't surprised me for a long time. The worse the repair the more I question if it worked after the repair...
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#42
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Sad but true statement. Same thing goes on today with hourly billed services. Unfortunately it's often due to technician incompetence taking up way more time than the customer should justify paying for. Other times there's circumstances beyond control at play. One way or another it gets chalked up to the cost of doing business.
Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 03-23-2021 at 10:42 PM. |
#43
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Quote:
ESP with soldering standards and ISO certifications ETC cutting corners are a NO-NO makes my skin crawl
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#44
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https://i.imgur.com/KDScPm4.jpg
one cooked candohm resistor. I happened to have a 1.3k 50w on hand, but it takes a 1.1k, not that it should matter for now, mouser is sending a 25w one... SOMETIME, along with the Caps i ordered, that SAY they will ship Fri, in the meantime I guess I can start replacing the paper bombs
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#45
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I now have extra $$$ from the stimulus check, meaning we now have funds to throw at a viable CRT for this set, be it the 21FP4 from DJ, or the 21ASP4 Steve from ETF, mentioned, there is no immediate rush to get it right now, ATM, but I would like to secure SOMETHING, before the extra reserve of $$, gets nibbled away by other things, we have all seen that happen all too often...
Failing everything else, as a ultimate last resort, if I cant seem to get my paws on a replacement CRT, I will pull the 21AUP4B out of the Stromberg Carlson x-21 and make that work somehow, but I really don't wanna do that if I do not have to.
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