21AXP22 installation

[DaveWM]

I am going to be removing a 21AXP22 CRT, 1st look was "wow" it sure looks a lot more complicated than a 21FJP22. All kinds of brackets, yoke looks integrated with the plastic bell housing. I read the service manual, and maybe its just me but I got lost on some of it.

So is there any thing I need to look out for? Its coming out of a deluxe and into a Wingate.

I am sure I saw some threads about fixing the yoke plastic, but that will be a ways down the road.

[miniman82]

Just follow the service literature, it's fairly straightforward. If it's a CTC-4 style setup you remove the neck components, loosen the strap around the CRT boot with the edge purity magnets on it, slide the boot off and the CRT will come right out. If it's coming out of a CTC-5 style shroud where the yoke is part of it, you can leave the yoke in. You should then be able to lift the CRT right out of the mask.

[DaveWM]

its a CTC-5 will get a pic later (esp since I would like to have an idea of how it looks when its in. Its coming out of a 5 and into a 5 so I am hoping it will be straight forward.

[kx250rider]

The only thing I can add, is be careful not to touch the inside of the plastic shield, or the metal tube, as this can cause an arcing problem later. If you do touch it, clean it with a paper towel and alcohol, and be sure it's dry. Otherwise, just blow-dust it with a can of compressed air, etc. Same goes for the inside of the face mask, as it's also capable of getting a contamination trail and arcing.

Charles

[AiboPet]

Cleaning a "contamination trail" on the back neckboard of my little Sears 9" color set...also fixed an arching problem I was getting from a cap in the focus lead to ground.

Don't discount that advice up there^....and always a good idea to keep the "fuzzies" from collecting on all the HV stuff. Fingerprints will likely collect dust, and then grow fuzzies. Especially fast on HV circuits.

[stromberg6]

Originally Posted by kx250rider

The only thing I can add, is be careful not to touch the inside of the plastic shield, or the metal tube, as this can cause an arcing problem later. If you do touch it, clean it with a paper towel and alcohol, and be sure it's dry. Otherwise, just blow-dust it with a can of compressed air, etc. Same goes for the inside of the face mask, as it's also capable of getting a contamination trail and arcing.

Charles

EXCELLENT ADVICE!!! When I "did" my 4, I cleaned the daylights out of the shield and CRT, and the rest of the chassis, cabinet, etc., and so far it's been great, no arcing or other HV related trouble. Always a good idea to clean anything electronic as much as possible, but essential when dealing with HV.

[reeferman]

Take a lot of digital pics, go at your own pace, and have some fun.
I look at these things like a big tinker toy set. Take them apart and reassemble.

[DaveWM]

I will see about pulling the chassis this weekend. I am going to hold off on messing with the CRT until I confirm I can get the chassis working. The big if of course is the flyback and to a lessor degree the power trans. I figure whats the reason to go playing switch if I don't have a working chassis.

[Electronic M]

I may not have pulled a CRT on a CTC-5(cause I don't own one), but I can say that on the CTC-4 it is relatively easy. I followed the sam's procedure for my set snapped some pics and had it completed in between 10min to 30min the first time around.

If understanding mechanical stuff comes natural to you, and you read the procedure more than once, then it should be fairly easy...You might even be surprised how much so after you finish the first go around.

[Steve D.]

It's in the instructions, but just to underscore that the cabinets, both for removal and installation of the tube and neck componets, should be face down on a padded surface. In the case of the Wingate, best to remove the 4 door pulls first. If you can get some help w/tipping the cabinets on their face, will make the job easier.Of course the chassis & tuner all knobs have to be removed before attempting any pix tube removal. As was stated, take lots of photos before hand of all connections, don't forget the speaker connections, and where things are bolted/screwed to the cabinet. When lifting the pix tube out have a safe level place to set it down already picked out. Wear safety goggles & gloves if you feel it's necessary.

Take your time and good luck with this project.

-Steve D.

[DaveWM]

I was just looking at it, it seems the tuner can stay in? there are connectors that look like filament/agc/b+ and the IF plug. The VC is hard wired. Steve do I need to pull the tuner on that Wingate? It seems like there should be room or is it just easier if its all out. I also assume there is a tuner cradle on the back?

I have some hand surgery coming up next week so I prob should just leave it all be until after that heals (a few weeks at least)..

[Steve D.]

Hey Dave.

I would remove the tuner. I believe portions are hard wired to the chassis
It's better to have the cabinet clear of any thing that may get in the way of lifting the tube straight up & out. You can see the small bracket on the back of the chassis. A metal tab on the tuner slides into this bracket. If you have the SAMS folder for the Deluxe chassis, the disassembly instructions are on the back page below the photo of the rear of the set. The instructions are for picture tube removal and chassis/tuner removal. IMO I think it would be a good idea to wait until your hand is all healed and not place unnecessary stress on it before the surgery.

-Steve D.

[DaveWM]

roger that Steve will do. Will be glad to get it fixed (hand), its a major pain.

The hard part is going to be sitting around staring at unfixed TV's

[miniman82]

The tuner can be left in, or you can move it to the slots on the back of the chassis. I personally just unplug it and leave it, just one less thing to mess with.