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#1
11-30-2009, 08:26 AM
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Radio chassis needs a bath and fumigation
Any tips on cleaning up of radios that have been in garages, carports, barns and cornfields for years?
I'm looking more for suggestions on cleaning all the crud off of chassis and PCBs as opposed to external cosmetics. 
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#2
11-30-2009, 12:17 PM
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Well it depends what sort of condition it's in. Simplest would be dust it off to worst case which means a lot of parts removal and rust removal, paint if it is really rusty. Sometimes it also may depend on the value of the set. A set that is pretty valuable maybe better left in a close to original as possible condition.Get it working but try to make the replacement parts look vintage. Some folks will just snip out the old part and solder in the little yellow or orange cap and leave it at that when others will take the time to restuff and handmake some parts like dogbone / body end dot resistors to replace the originals. It give the set a real vintage look when you show it to your geek buddies or put it up for sale. You wouldn't want your greatgrand kid to think this set had orange drops in it from 1935!
A number of years ago I trash pick a 1948 tv set cabinet was great but the innards was awful! Looked like it went camping without a tent for ten or fifteen years or so. Very Rusty!!! After lots of parts replacement I got it working but what to do with the chaiss? Well I masked all the toob sockets and tuner the rest got the wire wheel. Then a few coat of grey hammertone spray. I wish it worked as good as it looks. Still has some minor horiz issues. I think it was an amazing recovery. Terry Philco 70 chairside is still in traction
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#3
11-30-2009, 01:15 PM
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Those are good ideas for rust. And the usual dust.
But what about sticky crud? Like sticky crud with sawdust, dust bunnies and lord knows what else? (no mouse droppings or it would be in the trash!) I'm thinking of a spray solvent is needed. But don't want to disolve the working components! The radio works after a couple electrolytics and re-soldering a dozen bad solder joints. Just still nasty inside. Must have been in a kitchen for a long time. The outside got cleaned but not the inside.
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#4
11-30-2009, 01:21 PM
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Terry,
The philco looks great! Good transformation. I often restuff cardboard multi-sections and cans just because sometimes it's easier than figuring out a different mounting system. I don't mind someone seeing orange drops or yellow drips when they open up a set. I have thought about stuffing and re-waxing those old wax paper caps though.
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#5
11-30-2009, 01:36 PM
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Well I've used things like Kerosene, really stinky WD-40, Mek, odorless mineral spirits, white gas, alcohol. All should be used with care as they are combustible. I like petroleum distillates most evaporate quick and are strong. Good for cleaning wax dripping. Sometimes a heatgun is a good tool to get off sticky drips and other stuff.
Terry
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#6
11-30-2009, 02:54 PM
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Maybe kerosene and a match???
I'm thinking you are right about some kind petroleum distillates. Something more refined like alcohol that evaporates quickly. Will have to test certain areas ahead of time in case it would turn the thing into a mass of goo. Thanks!
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#7
11-30-2009, 03:18 PM
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If you could post some pic's it would be helpful.
Terry
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#8
11-30-2009, 03:26 PM
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I've been using odorless mineral spirits and q-tips lately. Sometimes lacquer thinner for stubborn stuff. All of Terry's other suggestion are good too.
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#9
11-30-2009, 04:31 PM
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Be VERY careful when using stuff like tolulene, MEK, that kinda stuff...They are HIGHLY flammable, can "eat" most plastics up, & will burn the whizz outta yr fingers if you have a paper cut or somesuch...IIRC, MEK & tolulene are carcinogens, too, but their other aspects would kill you long before cancer would. That being said, MEK & tolulene will clean away really nasty stuff.
__________________
Benevolent Despot
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#10
11-30-2009, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Where is Roslyn PA? I grew up, went to elementary and jr/sr high school in Concordville (near Media) PA.
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#11
11-30-2009, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
 Need to be well ventilated when using that stuff. I think I have a can of acetone somewhere ... hmmm. I think the components and bakelite (or whatever the PCB is made of) would tolerate these solvents. But I wonder about insulation on wires and coils.
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#12
11-30-2009, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Growing up leads to growing old and then to dying, And dying to me dont sound like all that much fun... -John Mellencamp
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#13
11-30-2009, 06:44 PM
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About 30min north east of Media.
Terry
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#15
12-01-2009, 06:35 AM
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If you have access to an air compressor that really helps in blowing the debris off (use it outside!). Using a paintbrush will help too, and if you don't have a compressor it can also do a decent job of initial cleaning. I like to blow, brush, and/or scrape (plastic putty knife) off as much as possible before wetting the chassis with chemicals.
Chemically I usually start off fairly mild with something like Windex, 409, or rubbing alcohol (get it cheap at the drug store)........ sometimes even a damp rag will be all that's needed. I start out mild and then work my way up if required. There were a lot of good suggestions tossed out here so I won't rehash them, but I will say be careful. Read the directions for any warnings and to make sure it doesn't need to be rinsed off. For rust, and even some tough cleaning, Naval Jelly works pretty well. It does require a rinse so at least go over it a few times with damp rags. Buying a box of nitrile or latex gloves is a good investment.
__________________
John Last edited by Eliot Ness; 12-01-2009 at 06:55 AM.
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