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Old 05-03-2016, 11:38 AM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Westinghouse 32" LCD TV found in Goodwill Salvage Bin

Hello everyone today when I was at work I found a Westinghouse 32" LCD TV in the salvage bin so I bought it from there for $5 and when I got it home to try it out and I plugged it in and it didn't show any sort of standby light or anything and it also didn't power on when I tried to power it on. So I took it apart thinking it might of been bad capacitors in the power supply but sure enough none of the power supply capacitors were bulged or showing signs of being bad, but what was weird though is that the way this TV was made is that the Power supply and the inverter board are all on one PC board. I was also thinking maybe a bad fuse but what's weird is that this TV doesn't use a traditional fuse like most TVs use, it uses a small capacitor like fuse assembly, so I'm not sure.
Anyone know anything about these Westinghouse LCD TVs or have dealt with them, and know if they are worth fixing up? I was hoping to fix it up and resell it for some extra money.

Thanks for your help.

-Levi

Last edited by Captainclock; 05-03-2016 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:44 AM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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I left the flatscreen refurb business about 3 years ago, but at that time, Westinghouse was about as cheap as they get. Many of their newer TVs only have one board! I worked on a couple 47" LED tvs that only had one tiny (about 4x6") board, and a big brick external power supply.

No real tips to offer without a model number to go by. Just saying, don't spend much time/money on it. You might be further ahead to just sell the stand and remote on ebay and pitch the rest.
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:55 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoogarXR View Post
I left the flatscreen refurb business about 3 years ago, but at that time, Westinghouse was about as cheap as they get. Many of their newer TVs only have one board! I worked on a couple 47" LED tvs that only had one tiny (about 4x6") board, and a big brick external power supply.

No real tips to offer without a model number to go by. Just saying, don't spend much time/money on it. You might be further ahead to just sell the stand and remote on ebay and pitch the rest.
its a set from 2008 and it has the power supply that uses the same kind of cordset as your desktop computers do (it doesn't use a brick) and it has two HDMI ports. it has 2 large boards in it, one that's the power supply/inverter board, and one that's the video processing board which has the video connector ports and tuner attached to it. The model number on the unit is SK-32H240S and like I said its from 2008 which is well before the time frame of the ones you said you worked on that had the brick power supplies and that only had a single board powering things. I hope this helps and I hope to find out more about whether or not this would be worth my time or not. by the way this TV didn't come with its original remote, but it still had its original stand so I think the original stand could be sold if nothing else at least.
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:18 PM
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jr_tech jr_tech is offline
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Often a cap can be bad and not bulge or leak... Electronic M said it best:

"If you are going to service SS gear an ESR tester is essential. There are ESR testers on ebay for ~$15 that have the additional features of RLC component testing and transistor/diode testing....I have one and consider it one of the best pieces of cheap test equipment I've got."

Can you ohm check the fuses?

jr
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:55 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Often a cap can be bad and not bulge or leak... Electronic M said it best:

"If you are going to service SS gear an ESR tester is essential. There are ESR testers on ebay for ~$15 that have the additional features of RLC component testing and transistor/diode testing....I have one and consider it one of the best pieces of cheap test equipment I've got."

Can you ohm check the fuses?

jr
Its got one fuse but its an oddball type fuse that looks like a small capacitor or inductor, so I'm not sure how I could test it. I don't have an ESR Tester, and the only problem is that all the ESR Testers I've seen on eBay need to be assembled from a kit and I don't have much experience assembling things from scratch, that's my only hesitation with buying an ESR Tester, plus all of the preassembled ESR testers are over $100 or more at places like Allied.

Last edited by Captainclock; 05-03-2016 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:34 PM
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Are both tinned/soldered ends of the fuse exposed well enough that you can get your ohm meter probes on them? If the fuse is good, you should measure close to 0 ohms from end to end.

jr
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:03 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Are both tinned/soldered ends of the fuse exposed well enough that you can get your ohm meter probes on them? If the fuse is good, you should measure close to 0 ohms from end to end.

jr
I have no idea what the fuse's leads are like because I haven't had a chance to remove the circuit board out of the TV yet. I can get you a picture of the circuit board in question and circle the fuse on it for you so you can see what the fuse looks like. Below is a picture of the whole power supply/inverter board assembly and the second picture is a close-up shot showing the fuse that this TV uses, which like I said is a rather unusal style of fuse.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN2806.jpg (108.5 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2807.jpg (90.4 KB, 26 views)

Last edited by Captainclock; 05-03-2016 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:13 PM
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Yes that might help, if you can get a clear shot.

jr
update: looks like you should be able to get to the terminal on the other side of the board and measure it... or unsolder it if necessary.

Last edited by jr_tech; 05-03-2016 at 08:20 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:30 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Yes that might help, if you can get a clear shot.

jr
update: looks like you should be able to get to the terminal on the other side of the board and measure it... or unsolder it if necessary.
Well I measured the fuse and it seems that it might be open possibly because it measures about 2 ohms and not 0 ohms like you said it should if it weren't blown. good news is that the fuses this thing takes are still available over at mouser for like 11 cents a piece. So it shouldn't be too hard to replace the fuse (although they have the fuse glued into place with that nasty white glue that turns to a rubbery consistency when it dries so it will be tricky to try and get it out of the circuit without damaging the circuit board traces.) What's a good way to get rid of that glue without damaging anything?
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:36 PM
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I stated "close to 0 ohms" ... IMHO 2 ohms is likely close enough, but for a better measurment, you should remove it from the board. I usually use a small exacto knife or scalpel to carefully cut away most of the rubbery glue.

jr

Last edited by jr_tech; 05-03-2016 at 08:39 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 05-04-2016, 04:13 AM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
I stated "close to 0 ohms" ... IMHO 2 ohms is likely close enough, but for a better measurment, you should remove it from the board. I usually use a small exacto knife or scalpel to carefully cut away most of the rubbery glue.

jr
OK, well the closest thing I have to an exacto knife is a box cutter and that's it. Which I'm assuming a box cutter will do the same thing as an exacto knife except not as precise as an exacto knife. anyways if you had to guess as to which capacitors on the power supply board would be bad which ones would you suspect first? The ones closest to the back of the board or the ones in the middle or the large electrolytic capacitor?

Also I've never seen a LCD TV with 6 inverter connections before, I've seen them with 2 or 4 inverter connections but never 6 connections and certainly never on one side of the LCD Panel before, usually the inverter connections are at the top and the bottom of the inverter board but this is the first time I've seen the inverter connections come out on one side of the board. Is there some sort of advantage to doing it on one side of the inverter board as opposed to the traditional way of doing it with the connections coming out of the top and bottom of the inverter board? Could this possibly be an early LED TV?
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:14 AM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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Many of the older TVs used an inverter board with multiple outputs. Usually one per CCFL tube, or one per pair of tubes, or sometimes the CCFL tubes are U-shaped and there is one per "U". Nothing unusual there.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:45 AM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by CoogarXR View Post
Many of the older TVs used an inverter board with multiple outputs. Usually one per CCFL tube, or one per pair of tubes, or sometimes the CCFL tubes are U-shaped and there is one per "U". Nothing unusual there.
OK didn't know that. So do you know anything about the older Westinghouse LCD TVs?
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:32 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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OK So here's some pictures of the unit in question fully reassembled (and still not working) so maybe some pictures of the unit in question might trigger a memory or two about the tv and what all went wrong with it that would of caused it not to power on, I'm still thinking its something with the power supply board like a bad capacitor or two or something but seeing as they used Nippon Chemicon capacitors in this TV which are some of the more reliable capacitors out there it seems more likely it might of been something else, but not sure. Would it be possible to find a replacement power supply board for this TV on ebay for cheap do you think? And do you think that might fix this TV's issue?

It seems that there are several inverter/power supply boards for this particular TV for sale on ebay ranging in price between $30-$60 all with free shipping and they all seem to of been pulled from working units that had busted LCD panels so maybe it might be a possibility to try ordering a new inverter/power supply board on ebay and see if that fixes it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN2809.jpg (42.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2810.jpg (77.4 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2811.jpg (69.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2812.jpg (95.1 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by Captainclock; 05-04-2016 at 04:31 PM.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2016, 07:31 AM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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I didn't get a lot of the older westinghouse TVs. I do remember working on one that looked like that, that had a problem with the mainboard overheating. It would run for a few minutes then the screen would scramble and it would lock up. If I pointed a fan at it, it would run flawlessly.

I realize that doesn't help much in your situation.

Where I worked, we got in truckloads of store-return TVs. My boss wouldn't let me spend time on TVs that wouldn't sell for much in our retail store. So Westinghouse, Polaroid, Element, etc, I just looked them over. If I didn't have them fixed in about 30 minutes, they got torn down for parts on the eBay store. Funny, off-brand parts (at that time) sold for more than the big names- so that was further motivation to not spend much time on them.
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