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  #1  
Old 02-01-2018, 01:56 PM
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jr_tech jr_tech is offline
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Sometimes if the yoke does not slide off easily over the base cap, a little gentle heat from a hairdrier is helpful.

jr

Last edited by jr_tech; 02-01-2018 at 02:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2018, 06:12 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Sometimes if the yoke does not slide off easily over the base cap, a little gentle heat from a hairdrier is helpful.

jr
Wrapping a thin card stock shim around the glass over the bakelite base can also help.
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Old 02-02-2018, 02:25 AM
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Done That Already

Removing the CRT with the accoutrements attached was simple. Aquadag coating (or whatever) looks intact.



Cleaned up the chassis a bit, and now I'm checking continuities through all coils. The yoke checks out OK.


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Old 02-04-2018, 06:03 PM
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A Little More Help, Please

Below is a photo of the wiring of one of the 'lytics. It appears to be factory-wired, but I can't reconcile it with the Sams schematic, parts list, and the info stamped on the can.



So, please tell me that I'm reading it wrong or, if the schematic and the wiring disagree, which I should do--follow the schematic or duplicate what's already there.

Thanks,
Henry.
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:20 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky Dink View Post
Below is a photo of the wiring of one of the 'lytics. It appears to be factory-wired, but I can't reconcile it with the Sams schematic, parts list, and the info stamped on the can.



So, please tell me that I'm reading it wrong or, if the schematic and the wiring disagree, which I should do--follow the schematic or duplicate what's already there.

Thanks,
Henry.
The schematic is wrong!
The 6AS5 audio output tube is used a voltage divider as well. The voltages shown are way off. The voltage on the cathode should be at least 100 volts or more.
Just wire it the way you find it! It worked before!
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