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  #31  
Old 12-18-2019, 10:19 AM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
Ion control...
https://imgur.com/r3Yt9S5

is this the sort of thing I'm looking for?

Funny, every time I see “Ion trap” I tend to think about the big Ion Cannon from empire strikes back. :p
I actually have the last release of the original unaltered version of the original Star Wars Trilogy on VHS, it was the final release of the original unaltered version from 1995 just 2 years before they released the first altered version in 1997.
And Yes Luke shot first in the Canteen!
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  #32  
Old 12-18-2019, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
I actually have the last release of the original unaltered version of the original Star Wars Trilogy on VHS, it was the final release of the original unaltered version from 1995 just 2 years before they released the first altered version in 1997.
And Yes Luke shot first in the Canteen!


Don't you mean Han Solo?

We used to pretend that fluorescent tubes were light sabers...


Now that I found a trap (not the original ) , and as mentioned, once I pull out and finish the CTC-90, it will be time to play with this monster, and first off, trying to work out how to safely (temp?) mount the CRT for the testing.
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  #33  
Old 12-18-2019, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
Don't you mean Han Solo?

We used to pretend that fluorescent tubes were light sabers...


Now that I found a trap (not the original ) , and as mentioned, once I pull out and finish the CTC-90, it will be time to play with this monster, and first off, trying to work out how to safely (temp?) mount the CRT for the testing.
The 630 had the front of the CRT simply resting on a cutout in the front of the cabinet that it was installed through, and the neck supported by the yoke. A piece of styrofoam tall enough to keep the neck from being crooked in the yoke should be fine. For servicing the set on its side while opperating a IIRC 5XP4 test CRT is recommended...I don't gots one so I use an 8AXP4 or once in a while just use the 10BP4 it came with.... DuMonts and their licensees are nicer on the bench because they tended to integrate the face mount into the chassis.
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  #34  
Old 12-18-2019, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
The 630 had the front of the CRT simply resting on a cutout in the front of the cabinet that it was installed through, and the neck supported by the yoke. A piece of styrofoam tall enough to keep the neck from being crooked in the yoke should be fine. For servicing the set on its side while opperating a IIRC 5XP4 test CRT is recommended...I don't gots one so I use an 8AXP4 or once in a while just use the 10BP4 it came with.... DuMonts and their licensees are nicer on the bench because they tended to integrate the face mount into the chassis.
Anything useful will be a bit hard to find, ( plug-in compatible ) that's not way overpriced

the closest thing I can find, so far is a 8KP4 at the ETF, same general wiring and biasing, & it won't roll off the table,
the only major dif, is electrostatic vs magnetic focus, & that most likely wont matter for repair.
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  #35  
Old 12-19-2019, 06:38 PM
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https://imgur.com/NqVsScT

Ready Ion control...

Yes that is silicon on the pin-cap.

it was damaged over the years with all the moving, but still checks out very strong.
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  #36  
Old 12-29-2019, 01:50 PM
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I found it!! i found it! i found everything!!!

I had little hope that all the hardware was still there from the TV over the years and all the moves, that I went so far as to go a get an ion trap that I saw on e-bay.
but today when i was looking in my shed .

https://imgur.com/pKlbRDW

I got very lucky.

al the hardware is still there!!


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  #37  
Old 12-29-2019, 01:59 PM
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Sweet!
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  #38  
Old 12-30-2019, 10:02 AM
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When I do ever get this working, is to try and build a larger size cabinet for it, out of wood mostly, birch plywood, finished to match the CRT surround I have.

The electronics / CRT chamber on top, will have an clear plexyglass top, so the guts can be seen from above when running, below it will be the speaker chamber, for the 8 inch Jensen that was with it, which still seems to be good.

I don't know how tall it will be when all is said and done, will have to work that out later.
I WILL BE putting cooling fans in it though!
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  #39  
Old 01-23-2020, 06:38 PM
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test CRT came today, a used 8YP4 ( from ETF)

https://imgur.com/5rxArRx
https://imgur.com/BjSCvw5
https://imgur.com/dBZlbdD

cute little thing!


minor scratches and screen burn, worth it, over all.

NOW I got to come up with some sort of socket to hook up to it.
the socket to my 12lp4 is damaged, ad i was going to replace it anyway, I see out there that they had adapters to hook this sort of thing up to it, I could wire up a socket for the 8YP4 temp, but I am not sure what to get to start with.

what do I look for that will plug on to this thing?
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  #40  
Old 01-23-2020, 09:40 PM
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i know what it should look like.
bk-precision_cr-11

https://elektrotanya.com/PREVIEWS/38...r_sm.pdf_1.png

i should be able to get that socket someplace ...

edit,
ALMOST, but not quite.
the pins don't match up
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-7-p...-/123774257767
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Last edited by Yamamaya42; 01-23-2020 at 09:52 PM.
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  #41  
Old 01-23-2020, 10:03 PM
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Isn't that crt vastly different from what the set is supposed to use?

Also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TELE-MATIC-...sAAOSwfiReCDlF
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  #42  
Old 01-23-2020, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
Isn't that crt vastly different from what the set is supposed to use?

Also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TELE-MATIC-...sAAOSwfiReCDlF
It will not matter that much for the initial bringing up the set from the “dead” voltages are generally close and the yoke can be made to work on it.

Once things are more or less stable with the chassis, and an enclosure is made for it, then I will switch to the 12lp4 for the final (permanent) repairs and restore.
The test CRT is a bit more robust, and will take some abuse, and I don't want to risk the 12lp4 until I can get a stable picture on the thing.

The CRT wires on the chassis are in crappy shape ( 5 of them ) and I will be replacing them anyway, so I am planning to run them from the chassis to a terminal block, so I can easily swap out socket types when needed.
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Last edited by Yamamaya42; 01-23-2020 at 10:51 PM.
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  #43  
Old 01-24-2020, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
Isn't that crt vastly different from what the set is supposed to use?

Also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TELE-MATIC-...sAAOSwfiReCDlF
Your on the right track suggesting a brighter, but the one you found is thin pin and won't fit yama's tube.

I think I may have the exact adapter you need from an old test jig in my knick knacks... Yama if I find it your welcome to it for postage cost.
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  #44  
Old 01-24-2020, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Your on the right track suggesting a brighter, but the one you found is thin pin and won't fit yama's tube.

I think I may have the exact adapter you need from an old test jig in my knick knacks... Yama if I find it your welcome to it for postage cost.
Please let me know if you find anything.
I'd much prefer to have some kind of socket for it, but if nothing can be found, as a last resort, I can prob hunt down a tube socket that has generally the same size pin clips, pull them out and solder wires to that and hook those to the CRT, and hold them in with heat shrink tubing.
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  #45  
Old 01-25-2020, 02:35 PM
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And so it starts...

https://imgur.com/bucYKCw

Replace the 40UF with 50uf, and 80UF with 80 or 100UF, ( wont matter much.)

but what I am wondering is, the 5U4GG,
https://imgur.com/OFeDbkt
not even sure if they are any good or not, replace them with a hefty diodes, ( keeping the heaters hooked up so they glow ) or go with the orig tube RECT?

hmmm
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