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#1
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i dont know what this means but bwhen i raise the bias the rect tube filiment dims and the whole screen goes blurry and the hv drops way down.
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#2
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You are overloading the HV or there is lack of HV capacity. What is the screen voltage on the HOT and what should it be?
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#3
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Ok I will look when I get home.
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#4
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screen volts on the hot ill need alittle help there where to measure but the rgb screen drives are to be 620-680 volts im getting around 600volts bg drives are to be 290v im getting 250-280 volts there. i also pulled the hot and measured the cap volts and thats 415v. horiz tube 6fq7 pin 6 is 280 volts. focus volts are 4500kv.
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#5
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No No. the screen voltage on the horizontal output tube. Its usually around 190v. Its usually on the right side of the tube on the sams, opposite the grid which should be around -45v.
stromberg6; this is a fairly common problem on these old color sets. If there is excessive drive to the horizontal output tube or a bad capacitor, even a defective focus control causing the HV to run inefficiently it wont be able to keep up. Kinda like if a car has a restricted exhaust it falls on its face when trying to climb a hill. These can be difficult problems to diagnose because its half way working. Some of the confusion with this thread is a problem thats related to the ctc16 chassis only. On the 16 there is a very thin trace on the edge of the board that fails and causes excessive drive to the output and results in lack of capacity. |
Audiokarma |
#6
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Quote:
__________________
stromberg6 |
#7
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Quote:
Lets start by verifying the HV system has enough capacity. |
#8
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Ok lets fix this thing....
The first thing I will say is the 390k resistor has nothing to do with it on this set. Its not even tied together like that. The thing calls for 200ma, if thats what you have and the screen is 140v I would wonder if you got the bias and the screens cranked up way to high. Check the HV reg current (it has a jumper) and see if you are getting the 1ma with a dark screen. |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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ill try to get to those terminals the sams shows -50v and the other 140v. i did check cathode current its at 200ma and the hot is not red plating. ill check those voltages.
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Audiokarma |
#11
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ok the hot screen volts sams shows -50v and i get -55.9v and the other sams shows 140v i get 140v. i had changed all the red caps in and around the horiz and many more.
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#12
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55 is kinda high. I bet once its fixed it will be -50 @220ma and will work right. Yes 5 volts can make that much of a difference. Hang out till I can get home and look at the sams.
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#13
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i checked these voltages with the set running normal i just put 2 wires in the socket and put the tube back in and waited about a minute then i checked.
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#14
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hv is all over with scene changes, clearly hv cant keep up with demand for whatever reason so far.
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#15
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Quote:
1) HV shunt is not operating correctly (a missing jumper would for sure do this as an example) 2) there is not enough HV in reserve (so the shunt has nothing left to shunt, and the HV drops) this can be a weak tube or other problem in the HV system. 3) CRT load too high from incorrect setup or defect in circuit or bad CRT. Answer the following please (in order) What is the HV (in kV) with the shunt tube cap off and the brightness all the way down? Make sure the tube cap is not near anything as it will arc. replace the shunt tube What is the HV now(in kV)? brightness up brightness down with brightness down does the HV adjustment pot have any effect on the kV? Its important to answer the all the above questions prefer in that order asked to try and figure out whats going on. It would help if you would quote this and answer each question. |
Audiokarma |
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