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#1
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Thanks everyone for their input and especially to Bob and others who took the time to post design drawings and their advice. I think I will give Bob's diode and thermistor design a try first as I have several of the CL-90s and a pack of 1N5408 diodes. I actually lost sleep last night over my clumsiness in losing the very rare 303 glass ballast in my mini-Hindenburg event. Oh the Humanity! Klutz!
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#2
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Just bought this 459 replacement on eBay. Looks like this company (JFD) did make a replacement for the 303 at one time. I'll either modify it or canabalize it to make Bob's replacement
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#3
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If it's still good I'd leave it alone and add the CL-90 under chassis.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#4
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Plug it in try it who knows it may work most of those ballast rust up inside and they are just to old and don’t work.
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#5
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Can't hurt right? I've done plenty to F&$# up this TV. What more could I possibly do to hurt it?
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Audiokarma |
#6
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Says it's NOS so who knows. In the original box and packaging.
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#7
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Is that the ballast for your set because there are 2 different ones.
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#8
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It isn't, but should work with a minor modification. The '303 has an extra element, but I'm pretty sure the TS-4H doesn't use it.
He will need to move the ac line from pin 5 to pin 6 |
#9
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That’s what I will do.
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#10
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I noticed when fooling with series string electrostat TVs that the heater would flash on turn on, glow bright, and then subside.
I thought it was due to them not being controlled warm-up heaters in these jugs, including the Pilot 3KP4. Do I recall correctly?
__________________
Goodness comes from getting the basics right, glory is to be found in tending to the details. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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I believe that's due to the inrush of current. I've always brought this TV and my Pilot up on a Variac.
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#12
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Yes, it is due to the inrush of current when the filaments are cold. Using controlled warm up version (typically ending with 'A') does not eliminate the inrush current. It simply means it is well defined. Typically taking around 11 seconds for the filaments to warm up.
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#13
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The series string doubler electrostat should have had a heater transformer on the jug to extend its service life.
Do any restorers do this for working display sets?
__________________
Goodness comes from getting the basics right, glory is to be found in tending to the details. |
#14
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Quote:
The person that came up with this has a great scientific thread explaining how they work/how he came up with it over on ARF.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#15
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I'm building Bob's design. Waiting for the resistors. I think all I need to do is move the AC line from pin 6 to pin 5. I have 10 of the "Littlefuse" in the appropriate size for this TV. Bob's design incorporates a CL-90. Will that be enough to protect the TV from the surge?
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Audiokarma |
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