#61
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Other than it looks much better, why did you replace the insulated wires in the tuner?
Also, based on the time of your replies, when do you sleep? |
#62
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If you're talking about Christ he probably sleeps between 11 pm and 7AM based on post time stamps in his time zone.... if he is retired he doesn't have to optimize things for a work schedule.... nothing unusual the way I see it.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#63
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Very nice work (as usual). Some of those resistors in the tuner must have been a pig to get at.
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#64
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No doubt he was super careful not to nudge or deform any of the coils.
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#65
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Quote:
They were replaced because some were cracking. So I replaced them all as a precaution. Usually between midnight and 8am. |
Audiokarma |
#66
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Correct! I am retired now 4 1/2 years.
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#67
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Thanks. Yes they were. But the paint had to dry on the chassis so it was a good long task that I could take my time.
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#68
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Correct.
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#69
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With the paint dry I could move on. Got a lot done today.
I finished the front panel controls. I decided that the "extra" Tone control and TV/Phono switch could be relocated in the extra hole when I moved everything to the left. Of course this control isn't accessible from the front pencil box, but that's ok. I'll use it to set the tone control on the bench. BTW, I eliminated the TV/Phono switching. Our TV never had it. I shortened the shaft so it would not hit on the front of the cabinet. Then I had to shorten the Local/Distance switch mount. When I first tried the chassis in the cabinet, the switch was right up against the pencil box and needed to be moved a little further aft. I cut off the mounting ears and shortened the mount about 3/8". Then bent up some aluminum and bolted them together. Worked out real well. If it is too far aft, I can use some small spacers between the mount and the chassis. I then moved on to mounting and wiring in the tuner and clearing off all the extra masking tape. |
#70
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Today I cleaned and checked the tubes. There were 4 that were bad out of the 25 tubes. One just checked into the green. Those five will be replaced.
I then reinstalled the CRT wiring. I placed clear heat shrink tubing around each wire where it went through the chassis for protection. I then redid the 2 terminal strips on the top of the chassis. One included the .25A fuse. I then turned my attention to the Flyback and 1B3GT connector. I replaced the 3 220K 2W resistors with 3 220K 3W resistors. After looking over the Flyback a little closer, it looks like the mice tried to make a meal out of it! They also nibbled on the filament wiring to the 1B3GT connector. I'm re-coating the Flyback windings with some Super Corona dope as I type. A few more coats and it will be ready to put back into the chassis. |
Audiokarma |
#71
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While you're at it change the HV rect filament winding...That much chew is likely to arc through. Better to do that now while it is easy to get at.
Quote:
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#72
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Did you verify that the flyback secondary (the 'tire') has continuity (just to be sure the rodent critter didn't nik the winding)?
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#73
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Yeah I did. It ohmed out pretty close to what was on the schematic.
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#74
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Tom,
Good idea! I changed those wires too. |
#75
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Before replacing the HV rect filament wire, make sure that it's made out of copper (not an ohmic wire).
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To understand a bygone era, you should use things from it Last edited by Gleb; 02-08-2019 at 05:17 PM. |
Audiokarma |
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