a real challange?

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by MadMan

47Mohm is really high resistance. idk if that's actually bad. But I mean they're all old crap anyway, so...
And yeah, change the bumble bombs. They're the same crap in a different package.

As for the focus pot, if they moved it to the front, it must've gone out of focus quite often and needed adjustment all the time.

high resistance to a digital meter, yes,, if i had a real cap tester, who knows.
something like this would find the short in it I'm sure
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EICO-955-In...0AAOSwjONdzWxC

just for an experiment, I pulled out a 36v dc power source and hooked it up to that cap ( out of circuit ) through an ammeter , and it pulled .87 amps ( rising as it was getting warmer ), I did not wait to see how high it would go.

As far as the focus being in front, that is not all I am finding strange about this thing.

it SAYS 895 on it and SAMS says to get this folder, but the folder does not list the 895 in it.
895 is a combo unit, but the folder has no mention of that.
i an starting to see odd differences ( mods they added ) like the focus I mentioned.

others are, no power switch, the vol control is to the left of the channel control , not on the right, as on normal ones.
and the big one, NO audio output circuitry. :O

[rld-tv01]

Originally Posted by MadMan

As for the focus pot, if they moved it to the front, it must've gone out of focus quite often and needed adjustment all the time.

I believe Yamamaya42 stated that this TV was built into the wall therefore would require removing from the wall everytime you needed to focus it. So seems logical to move the focus to the front.

[Yamamaya42]

Ordered a bunch of electrolytic caps today, so I can start putting something in this thing.

It seems that SAMs is wrong, and the 895 is NOT like the 899 and other models, just very very close,

found this
https://imgur.com/LO6LqLa
as opposed to

https://imgur.com/RqGRlhk

My thoughts on it are, since they put in in a unit with a radio as a dominant unit, they removed power switch and vol control, but doing that also removed the contrast pot , as it was ganged all together , so they stuck it on the other side of the tuning knob.

I have looked, but have not found any service info for the FADA 895 exactly they just keep pointing to the docs I have that are for the 899 and so on.
i doubt the right one can be found.

The weird thing is, I do not ever recall seeing the tuner and phonograph section with it there in all the years I saw it there, no idea what happened to it, if it was there I'm sure I would have grabbed it.
No telling what happened with this thing in the years it was first installed and when my grandparents got the place.

anyway the first few steps back to life have been started with it!

[Yamamaya42]

nevermind!

[Yamamaya42]

pulled out the first multi cap for replacement, C6, 250 uf @ 10v & 1000 @ 5V

hooked it up to my cheap multi meter for a cap-test and could not even get a reading on both sections

it's THAT bad? or does my meter just suck?
the replacement ones measure fine O_o

I will test it again @ work with the better cap meter.

-EDIT

yes it's THAT BAD. :O

testing on a elenco cm-1555.
the 1000 uF section only gets a reading with the meter set on the 20mF scale, and reads to be 2.8mF , the 250uF section reads at 140000 pF

[Yamamaya42]

first cap stuffed
https://imgur.com/vP9D74M
before
https://imgur.com/Qi5zXZF
during

https://imgur.com/adfqGKj
https://imgur.com/ZXMJTtI

after

[MadMan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

NO audio output circuitry. :O

Yeah, being a combo unit, that would've probably been in the radio part of the set. I'm sure you can improvise something based on the schematics you have.

[Yamamaya42]

C5 also replaced

but, these will be baby steps next to replacing all those damn paper caps,

but at least after it is done, there will be more room under there...

[Electronic M]

I'd look for a nice AM/FM tube radio with a phono input and use that for the audio...if you have any 45s you enjoy playing add in a RCA RP- 190 based accessory changer and you'd have a nice table model combo.

[Yamamaya42]

My dad had a need little mono 6l6/6v6 amp from when he was a teen that would have been perfect for this, but it has not been seen in many many years,
It has to be someplace, as I highly doubt he got rid of it, it's most likely hidden in some deep dark corner in the attic above the garage waiting to be found mixed in with all the tons of other strange junk he has up there.

I guess the quickest, easiest way to go (for now), is to get a cheap small class D amp, about 10 watts, and use that until I find / make something more appropriate, (find my dad's amp, make something from scraps, or find a cheap used.) however, by combining a early 50s era vintage TV with modern era amp technology, I run the risk of causing a rip in the rip in the space time continuum, and destroying all reality as we know it!

moving on,,,

Replacing the paper caps...

Paper caps have polarity, as they are clearly marked on the one side for the filtered /low side, and the film ones to replace them for the most part don't , example, the Panasonic caps have no polarity markings, though I have seen SOME film ones with a black mark on one side, where one can assume that is to go to the low side, like the paper was in originally... the info out there is confusing.

Also, the new caps are much smaller than the ones being replaced, so I would be safe to assume that it's best to put them closer to positive source, and have a longer lead on the filtered (what was on the black stripe side on the old cap), than to have it the other way around?

[Notimetolooz]

The mark on old vintage cylindrical caps indicated the lead connected to the outer layer of the foil. It is not at positive-negative polarity. In some situations it was thought the outer foil should be connected to the side of the circuit that is more closer to the signal ground (AC wise).
I have seen someone suggest you could determine the outer foil side of new capacitors by connecting one end at a time to a scope probe and hold the sides of the cap in your fingers. (Maybe you have to connect the other cap end to the probe ground lead.) The bigger signal (noise pick up) on the scope is when that end is connected to to outer foil end. I never tried that, but I see that it could work.
I don't think I ever thought it was necessary however.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

The mark on old vintage cylindrical caps indicated the lead connected to the outer layer of the foil. It is not at positive-negative polarity. In some situations it was thought the outer foil should be connected to the side of the circuit that is more closer to the signal ground (AC wise).
I have seen someone suggest you could determine the outer foil side of new capacitors by connecting one end at a time to a scope probe and hold the sides of the cap in your fingers. (Maybe you have to connect the other cap end to the probe ground lead.) The bigger signal (noise pick up) on the scope is when that end is connected to to outer foil end. I never tried that, but I see that it could work.
I don't think I ever thought it was necessary however.

I was using the term (negative side ) in a general sense as the chassis ( or ground ) is genitive in this set.
Example
https://imgur.com/KouQqr3
C85 C84 have outer foil side to gnd
https://imgur.com/T9pHSAI

Now, depending on who is asked :/ ( ask 4 people get 4 dif views, ) it may, or may not matter which way the new style film cap is put in.
some sources say it does not matter...
this says it does, :/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnR_DLd1PDI
mentions the o-scope test.
just wondering who to believe...

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I was using the term (negative side ) in a general sense as the chassis ( or ground ) is genitive in this set.
Example
https://imgur.com/KouQqr3
C85 C84 have outer foil side to gnd
https://imgur.com/T9pHSAI

Now, depending on who is asked :/ ( ask 4 people get 4 dif views, ) it may, or may not matter which way the new style film cap is put in.
some sources say it does not matter...
this says it does, :/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnR_DLd1PDI
mentions the o-scope test.
just wondering who to believe...

I've ignored outside foil in 3 RCAs of that period (and basically everything I work on) and not had any issues.

The idea of connecting the outside foil to low impedance is to shield from noise. Modern film caps are much smaller and thus have less foil and lead area (smaller caps usually get wired with more direct wiring in a restoration), and are less prone to noise pick up....there might be some special cases where it makes a noticable difference, but in most cases it is more trouble than it is worth...

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I've ignored outside foil in 3 RCAs of that period (and basically everything I work on) and not had any issues.

The idea of connecting the outside foil to low impedance is to shield from noise. Modern film caps are much smaller and thus have less foil and lead area (smaller caps usually get wired with more direct wiring in a restoration), and are less prone to noise pick up....there might be some special cases where it makes a noticable difference, but in most cases it is more trouble than it is worth...

thanx for the info, that is what I was looking for!

the stuff came today btw!

[Yamamaya42]

Does 1/2 an amp count?
https://imgur.com/yUrOwmm

I have a power transformer ( big one )
6V6GT
and a 12ax7
Most of the parts, It may be worth trying to build one.
this bit is cheap https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...w-single-ended