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#1
03-11-2011, 01:08 PM
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I got a partial order of capacitors in from Mouser and thought I would try my hand at stuffing on of the e-caps . The one I choose is mounted under the chassis and is not visible and very easy to get at. The cap is an aluminum can but is covered in a cardboard tube. Just two 40mf at 250v. I pulled the cap off of the chassis and the tube came off easily as it was just stuck on with a bit of black goop. The schematic and the cardboard tube both indicate that these caps are both 40mf but embossed on the aluminum can are 100mf and 30mf. I just thought that this is a bit odd. Anybody else run into this ? I will be replacing the caps with what is on the schematic. Just curious.
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#2
03-11-2011, 01:14 PM
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Give me a couple hours and I'll take a look at mine. I got my set over a year ago and have never pulled the chassis. You've got me curious to see what condition it's in.
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#3
03-11-2011, 02:46 PM
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My cap says 40 & 40 @ 250v on the cardboard. Measured actual 39 & 47uf in circuit. Can't easily get the cardboard off.
Kevin
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#4
03-11-2011, 04:19 PM
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Mine is 40 & 40 @ 250v too. Here are some pictures I took: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7003980...914784/detail/
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#5
03-11-2011, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
 Kevin
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#6
03-11-2011, 04:47 PM
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That's good to know. I ordered caps from Mouser (Nichicon PZ's) but they are being sent in two separate orders . The ones I have coming are 47mf's at 450. I guess a little more voltage won't hurt.
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#7
03-11-2011, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
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#8
03-13-2011, 08:13 PM
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Another question has come up. The image shows a pot that is used for the focus control. The pot is rated at 4 watts and 1350 ohms and is wire wound. The pot is apparently sealed and I was wondering if there is a way to clean it properly? The back of the pot looks like it is press fit or maybe welded on( hard to tell). I don't want to damage this part by taking it apart improperly. All of the other controls have a place that is open on the body of the pot to spray in deoxit and should not be a problem. Maybe I should leave well enough alone, but since I have the chassis torn down I thought this would be the time for cleaning. On the other side of the pot there is a brass shaft where I could spray a bit of deox but It does not seem like I would do very much good. Any opinions?
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#9
03-13-2011, 10:55 PM
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I'd leave it alone. I've yet to encounter a wire-wound focus pot that needed cleaning.
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#10
03-13-2011, 11:48 PM
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I sometimes wonder about everyone using Deoxit on carbon track pots. Is that really the correct thing to clean them with? My fear would be that it could mistake the carbon track for an oxide. Apparently it does work.
Kevin
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#11
03-14-2011, 12:19 AM
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Well, you know. I'm certainly no expert but Deoxit seems to be the defacto solution for contact cleaning. Its got my curiosity up, so I'm going to check around and see if I can find anything interesting on the subject. I'm going to leave the pot alone like bandersen suggests and move forward. I'm still waiting on a couple of parts orders so I have plenty of time to get into trouble.
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#12
03-14-2011, 02:41 PM
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I went looking on the Caig website. They seem to recommend their D100S (without solvent). But I doubt the solvent would hurt any of the old metal and carbon pots. I just seemed to remember some discussion over on ARF a few years back about it harming the carbon track. I guess I was mistaken. Sorry for the false alarm.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/.../.f?category=9 Kevin
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#13
03-14-2011, 11:41 PM
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While waiting for an order of caps to come in I thought I would get things ready and pull one of the cans from the chassis to restuff. I unsoldered the leads OK but the caps lugs were twisted over and soldered to the chassis. Not going to happen. My little 60w soldering station won't make a dent in the joint. So - looks like I will be mounting terminal strips instead. I remember when I was younger and getting interested in electronics I had a Weller soldering 'gun'. Long gone , but I think it was about 100 watts or so. Now,that would of come in handy today.
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#14
03-15-2011, 11:16 PM
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Here's a whole thread on the topic: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=249677
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#15
04-03-2011, 01:28 AM
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After much thought I decided that the one thing I needed to know was the condition of the CRT for my set. After all, without a working tube , not much of anything is going to happen. I was able to get continuity with a meter but after that nothing can be determined. I went on ebay and found a tester that I was able to afford and won the bid, a Sencore CR161. The meter arrived DOA. Actually, it was just like the seller said, the red light comes on so it MUST be working. Well, no guarantees , that's the way it goes. I didn't have a schematic or actually any paper work for the tester but thru a very generous fellow member (marty59) I got the necessary schematic. I found that a pot and a diode were burned out so I was able to order a replacement from Mouser and Radio Shack. I replaced the parts this evening but it looks like the tube is not in good shape. This is truly depressing. I was hoping for at least a weak tube, but the meter shows very little emission at all. Since the meter was DOA and I had to repair it to get it working , I even wonder if the meter is working properly to give me a good test. I do have a nice orange glow from the filament and I can adjust the filament voltage so I think that part is working. I tried the rejuv functions but nothing changes. At this point I don"t know what I can do. The tube is a 12LP4A and I don't know if any are available for replacement. Bummer.
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