Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

Different MacDonald?

https://books.google.com/books?id=NN...r%20tv&f=false

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That is the article I remember.

[WISCOJIM]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

That is the article I remember.

I don't think this William M. MacDonald, Jr. had anything to do with Zenith Corp.

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[Crist Rigott]

OK, back on topic.
Here is what I did to make recapping a whole lot easier. I took 2 pieces of hardwood about 5/8 by 3/4 by 12 and bolted the to the side of the chassis. This allows a comfortable tilt while I'm working.

[Crist Rigott]

OK, lets stuff C3. This E-Cap has 4 sections to it. For section A I'm using a 22uf 500V, section B is a 39uf 350V, section C is a 100uf 100V, and section D is a 82uf 100V cap. All are 105C Nichicons.

First thing I do is the see how well they fit into the PVC sleeve. Typically 4 will fit nicely. This gives me an idea on how to hot glue them together. I usually start with the 2 largest caps and glue them together with the negative terminals close to each other. Then the next largest and finally the smallest cap. I align the negative end of the caps to be equal. I then trim off the positive lead of each cap to about 1/4 inch in length. I then fold over the negative leads with my round nosed pliers toward the center and trim them off.



I use solid 22awg 600V wire for the new leads. I use black for the common and then loop it around the negative leads and solder them all together.



I then use the coil method to solder the new wires on each cap. For section A I use brown, section B is red, and so on.



I then fold over each wire toward the middle and then fold it again to have all the wires coming out together. Again, I use round nosed pliers for this. I then secure the wires together with some lacing cord to secure them.



I then insert the wires through the 5/32 hole I drilled into the base. I then place a mark on the wires where I want to strip them. I leave the common wire stripped a little longer like about 1/4 inch. I then trim off the excess wire length.



Next I put a large bead of hot glue on the lacing cord knot and inset the assembly into base. I then use hot glue around the inside of the sleeve to attach the caps to the sleeve.



I then terminate the wires on the base terminals. I typically will wrap the wires below the hole in the terminals. This leaves as much room for wires in the hole as possible. On this cap the half moon is section A, square is section B, triangle is section C, and no mark is section D. I'll terminate the common wire after the base is inserted into the chassis.





The new base is installed into the chassis, the common wire terminated and the soldered onto the chassis. Notice I went easy on the twisty things. The next guy will appreciate that. Though thinking about it, he'll never have to remove the base. Just unsolder the wires and pop out the caps!

[Crist Rigott]

Next up is C5. I used a 22uf 350V Nichicon cap. I installed a 3 position terminal strip and folded over the ground lug to keep it out of the way.





Then C6 got replaced with a Nichicon 10uf 350V cap. I used a 2 position terminal strip and soldered the ground lug to the chassis.