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Old 03-05-2012, 04:21 PM
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electronjohn electronjohn is offline
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Mitsubishi DLP bulbs

We have a Mitsu WD62525 in the customer lounge at work...I have a WD52525 at home. We decided to buy a spare bulb for the work set, and, a few days later I ordered one for my set. Purchased the bulb for the 62" from Mwave on the 'bay...and I bought a bulb for mine from the same vendor.

The bulb for the set at work arrived...and it wouldn't fit. Slid right in...but wouldn't go the last 1/4" to engage the power connector & the mounting screws. Tech support at Mwave said to examine the bulb housing & see if the connector was mounted "reverse". Nope. There must be some subtle difference in the housing to make it a non-fit. Mwave said to return the bulb for replacement.

Meanwhile...the bulb for my set arrives. Same story. This time, Mwave said to return it for a refund. I'm thinking they discovered a problem with bulbs from that particular supplier. Meanwhile...I'm waiting for the exchange bulb for the work set to see if it fits. In my case...as soon as they refund my $$ I'm buying a bulb from a different vendor.

All that aside...I think the picture on a DLP set is as close to a CRT picture as some "digital" device can get. I find the blend of IC tech with a color wheel is quirky & cool. Can't beat a 52" screen for $200...bought it from a friend of my son's who "upgraded" to a 3-D rig.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:02 PM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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You can usually take the bulb from the new housing and put it in the old housing. This voids your warranty, but bulbs usually last just past the warranty anyway

This can be done with no soldering 95% of the time. Just a nut on the back of the bulb, and a screw on the side. If the wires are soldered to the bulb, you can usually just remove the bulb with the connector attached. If you feel like screwing around with it, you'll find it's very easy. Just make sure if you touch the bulb, you wipe it off with alcohol to get the finger-oil off.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:16 PM
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electronjohn electronjohn is offline
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Good point there...the assembly is actually quite simple. The power connector is held on by just one screw, and the bulb & reflector look to be E-Z to remove and swap to the other housing. The bulb in my set is still good...I just wanted to have a "hot spare" on hand, so to speak. I do have a dead bulb, so if I run into a non-fit situation I'll do the swap.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:17 PM
Geoff Bourquin Geoff Bourquin is offline
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I almost always buy bare bulbs and use the old, OEM housing. I have encountered some aftermarket housings that don't seem to fit quite right.

On both of those models there is another potential problem. If the connector doesn't quite line up when the new lamp goes in it can push the connector apart in the TV. I have seen a couple dozen of these with that problem. Usually you can reassemble the connector in the TV and bend the clips back to hold it together. You can probably tell if this has happened by getting a flashlight and looking into the lamp socket. You'll need to remove the plastic back cover, and the metal cover that is under it to get at the back of the socket to fix it if it is sprung. Good luck.

If the new lamp wont fire up we can talk about the 3300uf electrolytics on the power supply board that quit and cause a no lamp problem, as well as the 1000/16s on the power, formatter, and DM boards, along with a few hundred surface mount caps that cause all sorts of problems from speckles to big static lines to you name it.

I have a WD52525 that is starting to show all sorts of small but annoying stuff on the screen, as well as needing to be rebooted a few times a week. I have not decided if I want to try to replace all of these SM caps or just junk it and patch up something else from my scrap pile


If you do a bulb swap be careful when you turn the nut on the back of the bulb. You can twist the lamp apart if you turn too hard. I put needlenose pliers just below the nut so the twist force is not applied to the ceramic "glue" that holds the lamp in the reflector.

Last edited by Geoff Bourquin; 03-05-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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