#76
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Both would make sense. The sams didn't have reference about VNP and you couldn't see the writing until removing it. The other end does have some damage.
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#77
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Since both ends are rubber insulator I'm pretty sure that is a non-polarized...Most that style that are polarized have one end aluminum (negative) and one rubber (positive).
There are two ways you can replace it; order the correct non-polarized lytic or put two polarized lytics of twice the rated capacitance of the original in series*. * For them to behave like a non-polarized cap you need to connect both positives together then connect the negatives to circuit OR connect both negatives together and connect the positives to circuit.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 06-11-2018 at 01:47 PM. |
#78
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I'm going to have to run them in a series anyway unless I find a different cap source. Mouser.com has no polar but highest is 100 volts and this is 400 volts 10uf
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#79
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Is it common for a cap to be in place but not listed on a Sam's? The .0068 paper cap centered does not appear in the pictured diagram or show in the list of caps with that value. Could the SAMS just be off and Zenith used a slightly different design? Aside from a bumblebee being a paper the SAMS has bee spot on.
Also I removed the cap to find it's value and later turned the TV to test a replaced resistor. The set's picture was noticably better while that cap was still removed. Probably from the new resistor but after I was surprised when I remembered I had not replaced that cap and it worked so well. And yes I know that could have been bad and will not do so again. |
#80
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Remember Sam's is usually only a snapshot of one random production run. Sets often had significant changes between and sometimes during production runs. Parts added, parts removed, values and or wiring changes, etc...Always evaluate what is there in the set for originality. If what is there is a factory part/connection then you can assume that is how it is supposed to be, but if the part is the work of an old tv repair by an unknown tech be prepared to doubt it (do note what the change was in case it is needed).
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#81
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Is it common for a cap to be in place but not listed on a Sam's? The .0068 paper cap centered does not appear in the pictured diagram or show in the list of caps with that value. Could the SAMS just be off and Zenith used a slightly different design? Aside from a bumblebee being a paper the SAMS has bee spot on.
Also I removed the cap to find it's value and later turned the TV to test a replaced resistor. The set's picture was noticably better while that cap was still removed. Probably from the new resistor but after I was surprised when I remembered I had not replaced that cap and it worked so well. And yes I know that could have been bad and will not do so again. |
#82
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Quote:
If there are not OBVIOUS* signs that something which does not match the Sam's was changed after the set left the factory (say by some ham-handed tech 2-30 years after it was made) then you should ALWAYS assume Sam's is wrong and that the wiring in the actual set is right...Sam's used to pay shops that used their folders for reporting found defects/typos/etc., and some shops made good money showing sam's they were wrong. *Look at the soldering workmanship brands of parts used, relative dirt/dust, etc, and you will start to spot such things. We advise beginners to look at/have schematics, not for some infallible reference (documentation is never infallible), but because enough of it is right for it to help you understand generally what is going on, so we can discuss common part ID reference numbers, and so if we have not seen an exact model we can look at the schematic and give the most sound advice.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 06-19-2018 at 04:58 PM. |
#83
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I can just replace it based on the value printed on it. Set seems to work the same with or without it so keeping it, well it's replacement.
The sams also says this cap has a 3300 uf so I assume that off to. |
#84
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Never that was a disc, the Sams image is a bit hard to tell where it's pointing in some cases
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#85
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Before I could read bumblebee caps I once had a sam's value error royally screw up a resto...Ever since then I replace all caps based on the printed value on the body of the capacitor if it is humanly possible to read it.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#86
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I see what you mean, just ordered my last set of caps only to find on is listed as 0.0047 uf but the printed cap I pulled is 0.0015. ugh, guess I get to make another order
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#87
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Replaced all the caps and the set is working great. Thanks for all the help.
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