83 Lincoln Continental

[Adam]

Thanks for the info. I'm fairly certain the line from the external pump to the filter is ok, but it was leaking from the fitting on the fuel line that goes from the external pump to the in-tank pump where it attaches to the external pump. So I'm just going to replace just the one line now, especially because I can still get to the external pump to filter line after I put the tank back, but will have to lower the tank again to replace the one going to it.

If I do have to replace the external pump to filter line, I might try the rubber hose method, but for this one I can't get to again without lowering the tank I want something permanent so I've been experimenting with removing and attaching the fittings from the line I have and am fairly certain I can do this with the heat gun method now. The hard part actually seems to be not overheating the line.

I cut up my existing fuel line doing it, so I had to order more. I ordered 5/16 nylon fuel line, fittings, clips, and a new seal for where the filler neck goes in the tank (I figured why not replace it while I have the tank out). Once it all gets here I'm going to try to make that fuel line.

[MadMan]

Honestly, I would consider a rubber hose permanent if you used actual fuel injection hose and clamps. But hey, if you've got the heat gun and the lines, I guess it's worth a shot.

[Adam]

The new in-tank electric fuel pump is identical to the old one, except for where the filter attaches. The old one is 1/2" in diameter on the end and the new one is 3/4", so the filter won't fit. I see a lot of these filters for sale online, but most don't give the diameter of the hole. Anyone know exactly what filter I need here? Pic of both pumps below and the old filter...

[Eric H]

Whoever sold you the pump should also be able to supply the filter screen. Kind of surprised it didn't come with the pump really.

[MadMan]

It's likely a design change, so the screen part number was probably superceded. TBH, you should change that old strainer anyway. Looks like crap.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

Yeah, they all look small :/ Let's do some sleuthing. Look at the fuel pump and housing assy. SPECTRA PREMIUM SP2493H - the strainer on that looks exactly like SPECTRA PREMIUM STR08. Then, the rest of the strainers look similar in size, except AIRTEX FS184, which looks like a male connection instead of female - that one is probably a replacement for the old screen. So I'd say it's a safe bet the rest of the strainers are going to fit. Especially since the in-tank pumps on RockAuto all look like yours.

Looking on advance auto parts' website, FS0177 is listed for you cars, as well as FS260336, which interestingly says 'new number.' The pump also says 'new number,' which goes back to what I said about the pump being superceded / design changes. The FS260336 also looks exactly like the Spectra part. Some Advance stores seem to have the strainer in stock, about $10ish.

[Adam]

I ended up buying several of those filters, they were all slightly different shapes, but they all fit. I picked the one closest in shape to the original. I put the pump back in the tank tonight, and also replaced the seal on the tank where the filler tube goes in.

I made the new fuel line last week. I came up with a method of putting the fittings on that didn't require heating the line so much. The new fittings I got are way better than the ones original to the car. The clips are a permanent part of the fitting, and you just push the two sides together to take them on and off (you can do it with your fingers). I have pictures of the new line and fittings below (my phone seems to have eaten my pics of the filters).

Tomorrow night I'm going to try to get the new external filter and pump installed. And hopefully I'll put the gas tank back in on Wednesday.

[MadMan]

Nice work.

[Adam]

Thanks. I put the external fuel pump and filter in last night (things always go more slowly than you think). The fuel filter had never been replaced, the original one was still in there.

[Adam]

I put the gas tank back in last night. When I did I realized I should have also gotten a new rubber seal that goes around this vent that attaches to the top of the tank (the old one is cracked and hard), but for now I just want to see if I can get this car to run and don't want to wait another week for another part to arrive by mail. I just ordered a new seal this morning, and I'll replace it later.

I also couldn't stuff the filler tube in while holding up the gas tank at the same time. Now I can't get it up high enough to line it up with the hole in the tank with the tank already installed, but it looks like I can remove the piece the filler tube slides through that attaches to the rear fender, if I access it through the trunk. Then I can remove the tube entirely, so I can lined it up correctly and push it in with the tank already installed.

For now I have to use a piece of wood to hold the trunk lid up. Those hydraulic lifts that hold up the trunk lid aren't working anymore. But I also ordered those this morning.

When I first bought this car, I just thought it would be an interesting driver that I sold after a few years. But after I keep having to put so much work into it, I figure I'll either sell it sooner because I get fed up with stuff breaking, or I'll fix it all and want to keep it because I finally get everything to work.

I haven't worked on cars much in the past 10-20 years, but I used to work on cars all the time back in the 90s and early 00's - but back then all my cars were from the 1960s or 70s. When I looked for a car from that era last year, I discovered that now they're all either super-expensive, super-broken, or both, so I went for 80's cars (and now I have 2 of them: the 83 Lincoln and 84 Firebird). I like cars from the 80s, but I still have a lot to learn about them. But that said, eventually, I'd still like to pick up something from the super-broken category and restore it - I've always wanted a finned GM car from 1959-60.

[Adam]

It's alive!!

I had to drop the tank again to get the filler tube in, but it's running now. It started up with only 1 gallon of fuel in there (before it would only start with the tank more than 1/2 full), and no leaks.

Next up, I have to take the dash apart and fix (in order of priority):

1. The AC - Strangely, it's not loosing it's charge, but it's leaking a puddle of a clear liquid onto the carpet whenever I run it. (There's a sticker under the hood that says it was converted to R134, so at least if I do have to replace the evaporator, I don't have to track down cans of R12)

2. Replace the vacuum operated switch that releases the parking brake. I just disconnected it and plugged the hose. It was leaking vacuum. I have a new one, but there is one screw that holds it in going into the firewall, located directly above the steering column, that I just can't get to from below the dash.

3. Heater - the heater core is leaking, and I bypassed it last winter.

4. Radio stuff - Replace the 2 blown speakers on the left. In the radio itself: clean dirty controls, cassette player.

5. The computer that calculates DTE "distance to empty" always thinks I'm out of gas and beeps and flashes 0. The problem is intermittent (occasionally it just starts working), and isn't a stuck sending unit because the fuel gauge works. Also, the mpg calculator works, so at least part of the computer knows there's gas.

[Adam]

That computer that beeps 0 and thinks I'm out of gas seems to have fixed itself. And if it is accurate, with my new fuel pumps my average mpg has gone up from ~14 to ~18.

And I've used the AC two days in a row now, and it's worked fine: cold air and no leaking fluid.

[MadMan]

Originally Posted by Adam

1. The AC - Strangely, it's not loosing it's charge, but it's leaking a puddle of a clear liquid onto the carpet whenever I run it.

That's just condensate. The condensate drain is clogged with leaves and crap. Blow it out with compressed air.

[Adam]

It's developing another weird problem. Sometimes after it sits outside in the parking lot all day (only on a really hot day), it won't start. It will turn over, but it won't even try to start. Then if I let it sit 20-30 min and try again it starts right up. (It still won't start after just 5 or 10 min).

So it has to be something that effects all the cylinders at once, and something that can fix itself.

possible fuel-related problems?
I know it's not the fuel pumps, because I just changed those. Maybe something to do with power getting to one or both of the fuel pumps or to the injectors in that 2 barrel tbi unit? A relay? Couldn't be a blown fuse, that wouldn't repair itself.

I was talking to some guy in the parking lot while I was fooling with it and he said sometimes there's a solenoid operated valve in these tbi units and the solenoid sticks and the valve stays closed and the fuel doesn't get to the injectors.

possible ignition problems?
It couldn't have to do with a spark plug or wire, because that wouldn't effect all cylinders at once. The cap and rotor are new. Ignition coil?

Anyway, any ideas? I have no time to work on anything right now, but I'll have a week off in two weeks from now and I hope to get this sorted then.

[MIPS]

Two things I'd investigate is if the coil is firing at all (or run a coil resistance check) and verify pressure at the injector. A thermal condition is certainly possible for both the coil or a sticking solenoid valve.

[MadMan]

You should be able to simulate the problem by running it and getting it very hot then turning it off and letting it hot soak.

I don't know anything about a fuel valve on these, but I'm not that familiar with them. Having a solenoid valve not work sometimes is common, but for it to not work in heat only, and not just randomly is a bit odd.

At any rate, next time you experience the problem, try cycling the ignition on and off, waiting at least 5 sec between them. That should prime the fuel pump several times. Maybe you're simply losing prime, or getting vapor lock, and that should take care of that.

Also, depending on the car's design, if it has an intake air temperature sensor (unsure) that may get super hot on a hot day, and the computer will think it should use as little gas as possible. That's a thing that can happen.

If it's like the old Chevy TBFI, you can watch the injectors spraying fuel as the engine runs (or cranks).