2000 RCA Entertainment Series 27" console model G27647 problem

[pac.attack76]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

When the grounds act up, they typically cause bit corruption in the eeprom (more often than not). Since there are no mechanical adjustments except F and G2, *any* adjustment including tuner alignment can be tweaked off.

First, go in the customer menu and see if the TV has a balance control. If it does, move it far left or far right and make sure it stops at either extreme. Often, the pointer will run through the stop and appear on the opposite side. Keep moving far left or right until the pointer gets "locked" inside the ends of the balance range. The pointer can often run through the stops several times before you get it centered. That might fix it.

John

I found the balance and ran it left and right. Stops where it should. All the way to the right, I have sound. All the way to the left, nothing.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

I found the balance and ran it left and right. Stops where it should. All the way to the right, I have sound. All the way to the left, nothing.

Sound problems other that corrupt eeproms are uncommon in these. For the heck of it, did you verify the speaker itself?

The 169s had issues with leaky caps making the boards conductive and upsetting the audio output ICs causing int sound, squeaks, squeals, and no sound, but I never saw any later RCAs do that, but on the other hand, these are another ten years older, so...

John

[pac.attack76]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Sound problems other that corrupt eeproms are uncommon in these. For the heck of it, did you verify the speaker itself?

The 169s had issues with leaky caps making the boards conductive and upsetting the audio output ICs causing int sound, squeaks, squeals, and no sound, but I never saw any later RCAs do that, but on the other hand, these are another ten years older, so...

John

No but I have thought about it. I'll get one tomorrow for and put it in there to see if it'll work.

[pac.attack76]

I've yet to try the audio on this thing. I have a pair of speakers from another set I will try. I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.

I doubt it's a cap. That type of focus error (absent of any other picture symptoms) is going to come down to a bad flyback, a bad CRT socket, or a bad tube.

In the order of probability, I'd put the socket first, tube second, flyback third.

John

[pac.attack76]

So the part of the board that slides onto the pins of the tube. Can I check that in any way? I know this thing has some hours on it. Counter says 65000. And I just found out that left speaker was bad. Changed it out with another and is working now.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

Can I check that in any way?

Not easily (pics?)

The problem is that many of these develop a green coating inside the socket assy that becomes resistive (not measurable) over time and humidity.

Back when they were new, we'd order a new socket. When they got harder to find, I'd take them apart. They're usually held together with melted plastic posts. I would drill them out and carefully separate the front and back half.

if there was green (or worse) tracking between the Focus pin and the ground pins (there's a built in arc-gap in there), I would get a Dremel and carefully grind out the contamination like a dentist would remove tooth decay. Clean with IPA and dry well.

If it was repairable, I'd reassemble with a couple of well placed drops of RTV where the plastic posts were drilled out.

John