#1
|
||||
|
||||
Bakelite Crosley Multiband Restore
I paid too much for an old brown bakelite Crosley multi-band radio today at the trift, but man it was in great shape. All the knobs present, no cracks in the case, the back intact all tubes present, dial cover in good shape, tuner working... It has a large dial face, says "America" on top and "Overseas" on the bottom register.
I got it home and removed the chassis. I haven't plugged it in, and don't intend to without some good advice. I think the thrift guys might have plugged it in, so possibly the damage is done... I have two questions. First, what is the recommended way to restore the finish on bakelite cases? My first thought was Armor All, but possibly wax? I've removed several years of cigar smoke. ALso, I counted and including one large multi-value cap, there are about 10 caps that are candidates for replacing. Should I replace all the paper caps as a matter of course, or will that hurt the collector value? I guess I just need an education about restoring old radios as this is my first. I don't think its that valuable, but It's coool I'll post some pics later tonight. Appreciate advice on where to go from here. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
"Recapping", i.e. replacing all paper/wax and filter capacitors, is the first step in restoring a vintage or antique radio to past glory. If you want to test the radio before starting the recap, use a Variac (variable voltage autotransformer) or a dim bulb tester. Start out with the Variac set at zero, then bring the voltage up by degrees, observing the chassis at the same time. Stop immediately and unplug the power if you notice smoke and/or sparks coming from the chassis; this indicates a short circuit which must be corrected before going further.
The dim-bulb tester may be used if you don't have a Variac. Connect a standard 100-watt light bulb in series with the radio's line cord, then plug it in. If the bulb lights normally, you can safely go ahead with further testing. However, if the bulb lights to full brilliance and then burns out with a bright white flash as soon as the radio is turned on (or, worse, as soon as the set is plugged in), there is a dangerous short somewhere in the chassis which must be cleared before anything else is done to the radio. Shorted filter capacitors and/or a shorted rectifier tube will cause excessive current drain, which will blow the house fuses or the line fuse in the radio because the caps and rectifier tube are in a position to short the power line directly to ground if defective.
__________________
Jeff, WB8NHV Collecting, restoring and enjoying vintage Zenith radios since 2002 Zenith. Gone, but not forgotten. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the advice Jeff. I'll go through and make a list of all the caps, then out to PE to order. The model is 66-TA. Any advice for restoring the shine on the bakelite finish?
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Just wanted to add some comments on the dim bulb tester (which is basically a plug with a lightbulb in series - check out this link: http://www.antiqueradio.org/dimbulb.htm).
The dim bulb tester is a good way to go and any newly acquired old radio or newly worked on old radio should only be switched on while using one. For a normally operating 5 tube radio a 60 watt bulb should glow dim while the radio is on. If it glows brightly right away there is a short circuit in your radio somewhere. The link describes some other tests you can perform with the dim bulb tester. The general consensus these days seems to be that recapping will not hurt the collector value, but some people go to such lengths as matching wire colors, refilling aluminum cap holders, and even hollowing out the original paper/wax caps and putting the new ones inside the old hollowed out one. I haven't yet, but on a very special or valuable radio I would perhaps consider taking the trouble. It may not be a problem with collectors in 2009 but who knows if it will matter 100 years from now. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Here's a link for some advice on restoring bakelite finishes:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/freshwater/bakelit1.htm Armour-All is mentioned on it. Last edited by BostonDave; 05-07-2009 at 09:20 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
StarMover...... c'mon, you know the drill ! Where are our pix ???
__________________
. . . Console, chairside and table top radios. Test equipment , tubes, and a couple TV's. Oh, and tube/SS audio equipment.... lots and lots of audio equipment..... |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Just looked up the model and although it sure looks like bakelite in some of the photos, the info I'm finding is that the 66TA is not a bakelite radio, but is made of plastic. You may wish to explore this further because plastic is much more delicate concerning solvents and such than is bakelite so the advice for restoring it will be quite different.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Pics of the Crosley
Ok, here are some pics. As you can see I've removed and dusted the chassis. The bakelite cabinet was nasty with smoke residue. I'm surprised the plastic dial cover is in perfect condition. Not sure about tubes or other components, I'm just going to assume a recap. Neat field coil speaker. Does that date this radio? I'm guessing around 1940?
Last edited by StarMover; 05-07-2009 at 10:53 PM. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
One more pic of just the cabinet.
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
Audiokarma |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
http://www.crosleyradios.com/66ta.html http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/crosley_66ta.html http://radioattic.com/item.htm?radio=0094009 The last link there describes it as bakelite, but if you try a google search for Crosley 66TA Plastic you'll get a lot of links that claim it is plastic rather than bakelite. There are some tests you can perform to check for bakelite. The smell test is as follows: Rub the item in question vigorously with your thumb until you feel the plastic heat up. Then, before it cools, take a whiff. A distinct chemical odor similar to formaldehyde will linger with most genuine Bakelite. This often takes a bit of practice. Some noses find better results when the piece of plastic is placed under hot running tap water before sniffing it. There are other ways to tell from the weight, or the patina or even the type of wear. You can find lots of suggestions for testing on the internet. After looking up the Crosley I now am beginning to suspect that a Northern Electric I picked up last week and assumed was bakelite may be plastic as well. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/att...2&d=1241282754 BTW. Nice looking radio and in great looking condition as well. I can see why you bought it. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
The seller cited in the radioattic link contacted me and confirmed that his is indeed a plastic composite of some kind and not Bakelite.
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
THanks for the follow up!
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
I took inventory of the caps today. There are 7 flat caps, the rectangular jobs with the six colored dots. How do I derermine the values of these? Should I just replace them with normal caps as the other ones?
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
The "flat" caps are mica caps...normally shouldn't need replacing. (Although they HAVE been known to go open once in a while). There remains a possibility of a drift in value with age...but it's a pretty safe bet you'll be OK. Sweet looker there!!
|
Audiokarma |
|
|