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#1
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No lets start a food fight
On most sets from the mid 60's on I would not recap. Best thing to do is do only what you need to do to get a raster & evaluate the CRT. After that there are certain caps that should go. Can caps are often bad. Most will run hot or be leaking mung out the bottom if bad. When you get to early solid state sets cans almost never failed. Example is Zenith CC2 sets. I probably fixed an easy 1000+ of them and only changed 2 or 3 cans all causing white hum bars due to bad filtering on the 24 V supply. Best bet is as you start on your pile post the brand, model & chassis numbers along with a nudie of the chassis. That way you can be forewarned of any special care needed when you restart it for the 1st time. Changing cans in consoles is no different. With Zenith sets from abt 1975 on the chassii were almost the same from 13" - 25". If your 13" sets are solid states they have a console chassis stuffed into a small box but still serviceable ! Enuf fer now 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#2
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Thanks for this valuable info. I am going to enjoy the fruits of my labor on this set and then take stock of where I stand for the next projects. |
#3
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Forget the 13 inchers. Opened it up - zero room to work. These things were meant to be thrown away long before any electrolytics would have dried out and need to be replaced. Will move on to consoles.
Quick question: I have a mid 60's Zenith rectangular b/w console with incredibly strong CRT. Did what Zeno said, turned on just to get an idea before I start. Picture is twisted. I guess this is a yoke thing. Does anyone have a link to the procedure for getting the picture to display straight? |
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