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  #31  
Old 05-01-2016, 03:38 PM
walterbeers walterbeers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX37 View Post
Do you have a DVD player? Can you burn a DVD?

If yes then here's your test pattern generator:
http://techpreservation.com/dvddl/testdisc.htm
Thanks for the link for the video DVD test patterns. My color bar generator has seen better days, and this make's it so easy to display several different patterns for convergence and purity, along with resolution patterns.
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  #32  
Old 05-01-2016, 04:12 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
Good. I was informed that even though the new caps are only 200 picofarads higher than the original, it could still affect the horizontal deflection. I guess we'll just have to wait and find out. I'll also be deleting the instant on feature.
Dont worry about the instant on. If all tube chassis I would delete it.
If you are worried about the CRT keep in mind most Zeniths from
this era had it & the CRT's are the longest lasting of any ever
IMHO. Not much heat generated & not a lot of power used.
In theory & my opinion keeping the CRT warm eliminates most of
the hot/cold cycle & expansion / contraction that kills things.
All tube sets especially built on PCB's suffer from extreme drying
out of everything & risk of fire. Thats why cats love to sleep on them !

73 Zeno
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  #33  
Old 05-01-2016, 05:14 PM
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I admit that the CRT's life was a factor in my decision, but that's not really my main concern. I just want the longest warm up time because I'm weird that way.
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  #34  
Old 05-08-2016, 08:23 PM
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sampson159 sampson159 is offline
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well my flat chassis bit the dust after 3 days.big snap and suddenly i had a very small picture.safety cap blew.set was changed over to a tripler without focus block.they didnt change out the white caps.it has a replacement oval shapped capacitor.i ordered 6 spraque orange drops nos from ebay.4.00 plus 2.00 shipping.they got here yesterday.installed and its back!completely disassembled and cleaned every inch of the tuner,deoxit on every control and module.hit the switch and ..............................it works!tuner locked solid,full screen and once again,the patented zenith look.it got about 5 hours of viewing today and was flawless.i did have to readjust twice.seems the crt is slowly getting brighter.second adjustment held about 4 hours.i will post pics.cabinet is not too bad after a very close inspection.i have an avanti with a like new crt and a decent cabinet or should i wait until i find donor modules?will post pictures tomorrow

Last edited by sampson159; 05-09-2016 at 09:03 PM.
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  #35  
Old 05-08-2016, 08:31 PM
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rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
I admit that the CRT's life was a factor in my decision, but that's not really my main concern. I just want the longest warm up time because I'm weird that way.
If you want long warm-up time a SS set is NOT the way to go. Even with no instant-on...a picture will be watchable on most within 15 or so seconds...and at full output by 30-40 seconds..
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  #36  
Old 05-08-2016, 10:22 PM
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I'm used to solid state sets' warm up time. It's still a mighty nice TV though. It will be the centerpiece of my room when the chassis is fixed next month.
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  #37  
Old 05-09-2016, 01:11 AM
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Concerning your loss of HV, you can disconnect the lead at the tripler that comes from the flyback. Then, move this lead away from anything that it can arc to. Then, power up the set and if HV is getting to this point, you'll be able to draw an arc to a screwdriver, when you bring the screwdriver blade close to the end of the lead. If you get the arc, that means everything up to that point is good and your tripler is bad.

If you don't get the arc, that means no HV is getting to the tripler and there are a number of things that can cause this. Two common things are loss of B+ voltage to the horizontal output stage and loss of horizontal drive to the base of the horizontal output transistor. No horizontal drive can be caused by a defective horizontal oscillator module, no B+ voltage going to said module, or an open winding on the horizontal driver transformer. There are other things that can cause it; but, these are most common.

If you're getting no B+ voltage at the horizontal output transistor (should be around 120V-130V), the most likely cause is either an open winding on the flyback or an open power resistor that feeds voltage to the flyback.

The horizontal output transistor is likely still good because when they fail, they usually short and when that happens, the circuit breaker will trip.

While you're in there, that sloppy connection to the tripler needs to be redone and it would be a good idea to seal this connection with RTV (once the set is fixed).
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  #38  
Old 05-09-2016, 01:16 AM
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Don't anyone forget abut the "interlocks", on one of the b+ line--I think the 24V. line..that runs THROUGH the modules. if one of these gets a bad connection...NO HV or Sound..

I discovered this the "hard way" nearly 30 years ago..when working on a flatty...it had this problem...
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  #39  
Old 05-16-2016, 02:02 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I used a remote power switch, the kind often sold around Christmas time used to turn on lights. Just plug the set in, leave the power switch on, use the remote to turn it off and on. I looked a the circuit that powers the filament, did not look like something I wanted to defeat, but also rarely watch the TV so did not want the filaments left on all the time.
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  #40  
Old 05-16-2016, 06:34 PM
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I took the chassis to Danny when I was there the weekend before last. When we where testing it, two if the filter caps opened up and caused no sweep whatsoever. I think he's almost got it all sorted out. I will pick the 25DC56 up on June 11.
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Last edited by TUD1; 05-23-2016 at 04:24 PM.
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  #41  
Old 05-23-2016, 04:28 PM
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I polished the hardware on the front of the TV yesterday with Brasso. I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. This cabinet style is really starting to grow on me, even though it has some plastic. Zenith called this style "Mediterranean". Danny sent me a picture of this ad depicting two similar models. Does anybody know this TV's name?
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Last edited by TUD1; 03-12-2017 at 06:53 PM.
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  #42  
Old 05-24-2016, 09:22 AM
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D line hand out shows
D4758P or DE the Virgil w/ 3 pulls
D4748P or DE the Salvini looks like 2 pulls & key escutcheon
P= Pecan DE= dark oak

Funny thing with pulls. Almost everyone pulled on them
on the sales floor to see if they worked. None did !

73 Zeno
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  #43  
Old 05-24-2016, 12:19 PM
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Thanks, Zeno. I'll check, but I think the model sticker fell off.
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  #44  
Old 05-24-2016, 09:41 PM
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Good news! Danny got the 25DC56 working! He used his Avanti to test it, but it will be going back in my 1973 console cabinet. The Virgil.
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Last edited by TUD1; 01-30-2017 at 05:07 PM.
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  #45  
Old 05-25-2016, 07:37 AM
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well I guess I know what the weather is here Atlanta or down in Atlanta. lol That's good he got it going.
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