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#1
12-15-2016, 03:06 PM
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Nice work!
The soldering on the pre-assembled portions of kits is often pretty lousy, IME. The Heathkit color set that I put together this year had several melted wires, dropped solder blobs, a broken terminal strip, and an unsoldered connection in the high voltage module.  I also have a Heathkit frequency counter in my shop that was factory assembled (SM-2420). I got it really cheap because it wasn't working due to several cold solder joints.... 
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#2
12-15-2016, 08:59 PM
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The terminal strips are merely getting hidden away. Mouser has them,
just go to Keystone Electronics under manufacturers, then terminals. Then restrict to lug terminals and go beyond the first page.
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#3
12-15-2016, 09:34 PM
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Thanks guys for the nice comments.
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#4
12-15-2016, 09:41 PM
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I just finished Step 2 (Audio and Video Output) of 6.
I did a minor mod when mounting the audio output transformer. It looks like they provide holes for the transformer but the chassis hole the primary wires go through would be off center and the wires would have to do a quick 90 degree turn then about 1/2 do another 90 degree turn down through the hole. That ain't happening on my watch! What I did was put the wires through the hole straight down and mark the chassis for another mounting hole. I drilled for a 8-32 screw and used some NOS 8-32 hex head screws, washers, lock washers and nuts. Much better and it looks right.   Then in one of the steps they want you to wire the speaker via 12" wires to the terminal strip. Too much left to do to finish this thing to have a speaker hanging by some wires. I did think that a disconnect pug would work great especially when I mount the thing in a cabinet. Here's my question. Does anybody know where I can get a period correct disconnect? We're talking mid 50's here. Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-17-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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#6
12-16-2016, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
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#7
12-17-2016, 09:05 PM
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If you ever fall in love with an empty cabinet that needs the CRT mounted separate from the chassis the extra lead length could come in handy.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#8
12-17-2016, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
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#10
12-17-2016, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Thanks.
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#11
12-17-2016, 09:48 PM
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Tom got me thinking about keeping the long wires. So I came up with this solution:
 Now, my big question is having both the CRT and yoke wires with a coil in them will that affect the quality of the picture? Anybody know? Thanks.
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#12
12-18-2016, 01:05 AM
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Probably not - no significant inductance or capacitance generated - if it was color, perhaps, but B/W, no. Think about Predictas - CRT/Yoke had some pretty long interconnect cables......
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit!
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#13
12-20-2016, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
I see you still use the time-proven method of using lacing cord instead of zip ties. That's when craftsmen still cared. I see more of those strange Chinese names on the caps, but they seem to be good caps. 
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#14
12-20-2016, 10:16 AM
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dieseljeep,
Yeah, I still like lacing cord. It's a hold over from when I used to do avionic installations. The only time I used Ty-Raps was when attaching the harness to the airframe, if the OEM did the same. Otherwise it was Adel clamps. Yup, I'll "break out" the yellow wire from the rest of the harness. I got the caps, that I missed with my order from Just radios, from Sal's Capacitors. Very vice caps indeed.
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