a real challange?

[Yamamaya42]

on the bench...
https://imgur.com/adDUoEM
this was AFTER spraying the top side down with a bottle of 50/50 water and isopropyl alcohol, it got a lot of the dirt off, still cruddy looking though, but no where near as bad.

bottom.
https://imgur.com/oFR1Zab
SOOOO many paper time bombs under there


and OHHHH!
a cryptic message from some old repair!
https://imgur.com/7D4DOR8

[MadMan]

40-10-80 sounds like a can capacitor to me. 6AV6 and 6AU6 are tubes, 05- might be a .05uf cap?

Also, yeah the filters don't matter too much, but the next closest value to 40 would be 47uf. 80 would be 82. When I'm shopping on digikey, I just select the 4 or 5 closest values from the list (ie, 80, 82, 85, 88), sort by price and buy the cheapest one. Often, at least one of the values is not available anyway.

If the 5U4's are good, I don't see any reason to replace them with silicon diodes. If they're bad, I've seen shango use two pairs of two diodes in series, to drop the voltage a bit. The two 5U4's are in parallel anyway, so you'd only need to 'replace' one of them with diodes.

[Yamamaya42]

damaged coil removed...
https://imgur.com/hRDLbIF
https://imgur.com/qKZpm8F

on the plus side, the windings are intact.

bad side.
ferrite core is broken ( missing small bits ) i have glued it together .

both inner and outer core tubes were broken, MOST pieces are there and can be put back together.

I do not know how much the broken ferrite core will affect it, though only the top 1/4 of it was in the inner core coil.
nor do i know if i can fix the inner core where it can have the ferrite core turn and adjust inside it freely w/o binding or breaking it again.

I will try to fix it, because I don't know if i can find a replacement.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

Please let me know if you find anything.
I'd much prefer to have some kind of socket for it, but if nothing can be found, as a last resort, I can prob hunt down a tube socket that has generally the same size pin clips, pull them out and solder wires to that and hook those to the CRT, and hold them in with heat shrink tubing.

I found this hanging out on the I-beam above my work bench along with a bunch of other small knick knacks which are poised and waiting for a chance to fall on my head...
I also seem to recall you wanting some lytic shells so dug some lytics from my dud capacitor museeum.

Let me know if you want any of this stuff.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I found this hanging out on the I-beam above my work bench along with a bunch of other small knick knacks which are poised and waiting for a chance to fall on my head...
I also seem to recall you wanting some lytic shells so dug some lytics from my dud capacitor museeum.

Let me know if you want any of this stuff.

Yes please,
I can use them, the socket thingy, to hook up to the test-CRT, and the 2 odd can caps, reason is, not sure why, but both C1 & C3 are missing off the chassis, EVA, GONE.
The wires go to where they were, but not sure when they wete lost.
I'm replacing all electrolytic capacitors anyway, so no matter if I choose to hide them under the chassis, or attempt to stuff mult-cans with new ones, I need SOMETHING to replace the missing ones so it all looks right when done, so, yes please, I can use them!

[Yamamaya42]

Coil progress, the inner part is together, mostly, but super glue does not hold well on the waxy hard cardboard.
I will have to try some kind of epoxy. The windings are still OK.
And I still am not sure if it will work correctly RF wise when done. :/

https://imgur.com/vqY8AKs

[Yamamaya42]

Attack of the blob!

https://imgur.com/M65hQNr

I used black silicone

ugly looking, but it will be hidden on the inside, now i gotta wait for it to cure

[Yamamaya42]

speaking of time bombs...
https://imgur.com/4iUnaJ1

one must have gone off LONG ago...

and,, it was blowing my mind, WHY there was no focus adjustment on the back like it shown in the SAMs...
https://imgur.com/PVj4QDw

after a bit of searching , I found it,, it's on the front dials, :O
they routed it there!

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

Yes please,
I can use them, the socket thingy, to hook up to the test-CRT, and the 2 odd can caps, reason is, not sure why, but both C1 & C3 are missing off the chassis, EVA, GONE.
The wires go to where they were, but not sure when they wete lost.
I'm replacing all electrolytic capacitors anyway, so no matter if I choose to hide them under the chassis, or attempt to stuff mult-cans with new ones, I need SOMETHING to replace the missing ones so it all looks right when done, so, yes please, I can use them!

My PMs are full (=I can't send new ones ATM) and your VK profile doesn't allow you to recieve emails from other VKers...My VK profile does (it is a setting) so please click my user name and select send email. I will need you to send me your address so I can send you the adapter socket and 2 large cans. You can have them for shipping cost...If they are useful to you feel free to add what you think they are worth to you.

[Yamamaya42]

Dang... sooo many paper/wax firecracker caps to replace on this thing before I dare try to turn it on , cause you KNOW that they are all bad.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

My PMs are full (=I can't send new ones ATM) and your VK profile doesn't allow you to recieve emails from other VKers...My VK profile does (it is a setting) so please click my user name and select send email. I will need you to send me your address so I can send you the adapter socket and 2 large cans. You can have them for shipping cost...If they are useful to you feel free to add what you think they are worth to you.

e-mail sent ( i hope)

VK never showed me a confirmation screen :/ just went back to the prev after hitting send, so i can only guess.

If you get it twice, plz ignore, if not at all :O then it did not send. :/

[Yamamaya42]

I keep finding more and more fun stuff on this,, and i have just hardly started!

https://imgur.com/T9pHSAI

Nice and toasty!

https://imgur.com/KouQqr3

that is R113 that burned, and the waxy cap under all that is C85.

I was told that when my grandpa tried this TV way in the 70s that it made a raster, this is obviously wrong, that cap is shorted.
https://imgur.com/FOV3WGH
taken with the res cut out and just a simple OHM test. ( i don't have an ESR meter )

there is NO WAY this TV could have made Horz output and HV in this state.
So, as mentioned, all those paper crap caps got to go.

but what about the black beauties / bumble bee caps?
keep them in and see what happens?

and Electronic M , if you did not get that e-mail via the VK system , mention it here and I will paste my main e-mail addy here, does not matter that much since it is aout all over the place anyway :p

[dtvmcdonald]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

that cap is shorted.
https://imgur.com/FOV3WGH
taken with the res cut out and just a simple OHM test. ( i don't have an ESR meter )
:p

Really? The meter seems to be saying 47 megohms? perhaps the wrong picture?

Or am I drunk?

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald

Really? The meter seems to be saying 47 megohms? perhaps the wrong picture?

Or am I drunk?

that is the right pic.

that cap burned out a 1 watt 10k resistor. that line has about 100+ volts fed to it. that 47m is all through the cap, if there was a way to do a leak test on it it would be off the scale leaking.
for it to blow that resistor it has to be really REALLY bad.

[MadMan]

47Mohm is really high resistance. idk if that's actually bad. But I mean they're all old crap anyway, so...
And yeah, change the bumble bombs. They're the same crap in a different package.

As for the focus pot, if they moved it to the front, it must've gone out of focus quite often and needed adjustment all the time.