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  #31  
Old 05-31-2011, 12:24 AM
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ChrisW6ATV ChrisW6ATV is offline
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Phil, based on some of your other work, I bet you can do this. Good luck!
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  #32  
Old 05-31-2011, 01:09 AM
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Phil, you'll probably have to use some Acid Flux on those stubs to get them to stick.
The stuff that's used for Plumbing should work.
If they are Copper then some Rustoleum should brighten them up enough to solder to.
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  #33  
Old 05-31-2011, 08:33 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Hey Phil
I know it's a shot in the dark, but just to eliminate the possibility, have you taken an ohmeter to see if by any chance one of the 'dummy' leads might be connected to that same element? oc
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  #34  
Old 05-31-2011, 01:25 PM
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I checked, and no other lead connects to this one. Some of the unused leads are connected to the first ring (G1?). Too bad they didn't tear out that pin's wire, instead -- I'd have it fixed already.

I have some soldering flux that I can try on that stub, although I'm not optimistic. There's no practical way to heat both pieces with a soldering iron when one is in a hole. I have a mini torch, but using too much heat on that glass seems like a Very Bad Idea.

I wonder if someone yanked this cap off by force. When I went to clean off the old cement, I saw that a piece of glass came off with the cement.

Phil Nelson

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  #35  
Old 05-31-2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckA View Post
I have the service manual sitting here, been waiting for a reason to scan it and post on the site. I'll try to have it on line tonight.

The 610P, 651P and 661P are all the same chassis.
Thanks, Chuck! Excellent scan. Here's the link for anyone else who's curious about these models.

http://www.myvintagetv.com/Apple%20P...e%20Manual.pdf

Phil Nelson
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  #36  
Old 05-31-2011, 01:51 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Just musin', but if the lead is busted off signifigantly below the surface, it seems like it might be possible to devise a "cats-whisker and spring" whereby the contact would come under compression when the base is pushed into place and secured. oc

Last edited by old_coot88; 05-31-2011 at 02:00 PM.
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  #37  
Old 05-31-2011, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintagePC View Post
I wonder if one could rig up a spring-loaded needle in the CRT base that applies light pressure to make contact with that lead (much like you did by hand with the tester)
Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
Just musin', but if the lead is busted off signifigantly below the surface, it seems like it might be possible to devise a "cats-whisker and spring" whereby the contact would come under compression when the base is pushed into place and secured. oc
Is there an echo in here?

Last edited by VintagePC; 05-31-2011 at 05:45 PM.
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  #38  
Old 05-31-2011, 10:26 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintagePC View Post
Is there an echo in here?
WOOPs. Missed your earlier statement there, Vint. If I was gonna do the needle/cats whisker trick, i would drill a hole in the side of the base, located so as to visually guide the needle to its target.

Seems like such a spring-loaded contact would be better than an adhesive connection using conductive paint or the like. The latter would likely be prone to losing contact due to unequal expansion with the glass. oc
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  #39  
Old 05-31-2011, 11:05 PM
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I've used silver solder with some success. Just a drop and a quick touch of the iron might be enough to get the solder to liquify and sink down and make contact with the lead. If you haven't used silver solder before it comes in a syringe and is the consitincy of paste. The silver is suspended in the paste (flux). I got mine online I'll look for the source if you want to try it.

Last edited by charokeeroad; 07-03-2011 at 09:57 AM.
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  #40  
Old 06-01-2011, 12:52 AM
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Rats. All was good when I took this photo, but the joint broke loose when I pushed the cap farther on. Using flux on the wires did make soldering easier.

I have a little roll of silver solder from another project. Couldn't hurt to try that. I've been told it makes strong joints.

A spring-loaded needle contact seems like it should work, but I'm not sure I have the tools (or the eyesight) to engineer it.

It just occurred to me that I could cut away a section of the cap to expose that joint. After everything else is in place and soldered, I could sneak the tip of the soldering iron through the gap to make the last connection at the stub. That would avoid stressing the joint when I slide on the cap. If the electrical contact is sound, I could reinforce the joint with a dab of epoxy and then glue the cap section back on.

That's all for now. Goin' on a road trip with my sons until the weekend.

Phil Nelson

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  #41  
Old 06-01-2011, 01:42 AM
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I have had success chipping a bit of the glass away from the lead. I could then get enough of a stub to wrap a wire around it. I do not want to recommend this, but I was desperate and it worked.

I would also using a thinner gauge wire or even a stranded lead on the stub. It will allow more flexing and put less stain on the joint as you slip the wire in the socket.
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  #42  
Old 06-01-2011, 06:43 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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I've never used an engraving tool and don't know much about them, but understand they can be fitted with a carbide tip. Just wunnerin' if such could be used to gently abrade away a circle of glass around that stub.
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  #43  
Old 06-01-2011, 07:19 AM
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You could, but IMHO the real issue is the fragility of the glass-to-metal bond around the wire. Those are not easy to make, and considering how much pressure is on the tube... that's really a last resort.
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  #44  
Old 06-01-2011, 08:26 AM
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What is the CRT on this one ? Are they THAT "Unobtanium" ?
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  #45  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:29 AM
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Schematic says 10FP4. This one is a 10BP4. Not unobtanium, but this one tests as strong as any 10BP4 I've come across. Why buy a new one if I can make this strong one work?

Phil Nelson
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