Bakelite Crosley Multiband Restore - Page 2 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

StarMover · #16 05-09-2009, 05:10 PM

Thanks ej, I wasn't looking forward to replacing those.

StarMover · #17 05-11-2009, 07:31 AM

I've made a list of cap values I'll need for the project, but after looking at a couple of online sources, I've become confused about exactly what kind of caps to order. There are WWII, post-WWII, Tubular, etc. The caps required are:

.005 MFD 600VDC (x3)
.01 MFD 200VDC (x1)
.01 MFD 400VDC (x2)
.05 MFD 200VDC (x1)
.05 MFD 400VDC (x1)
20 MFD 275VDC (x1) (large)

There is one component, that I think is a cap, but it looks like a large resistor coded (orange, orange, brown, silver) stripes. I've circled it in red on the attached image. Is that a cap, and if so, then what is the value and what do I replace it with?

If someone could set me straight, I'd appreciate it!

I'd hate to order the wrong parts. Thanks, PJ

electronjohn · #18 05-11-2009, 01:31 PM

That's a 330 ohm resistor, and looks to be fairly hefty...at least a 2 watt if not larger. If you don't have a color code chart...bookmark this: http://www.ealnet.com/m-eal/resistor/resistor.htm Very handy.

StarMover · #19 05-21-2009, 10:54 AM

still waiting on my parts. I didn't realize that SimplyRadios was in Canada! I've started replacing some of the brittle rubber wire, but I don't want to get too far along without my new caps.

electroking · #20 05-21-2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StarMover

still waiting on my parts. I didn't realize that SimplyRadios was in Canada! I've started replacing some of the brittle rubber wire, but I don't want to get too far along without my new caps.

Don't worry, the border is still open for business! Good luck!

StarMover · #21 05-21-2009, 11:51 PM

Got parts today. Amazing how much smaller modern caps are... 3-day weekend coming up, so perhaps a chance to put a couple hours in.

Rayburn69 · #22 05-22-2009, 08:18 PM

What a Fantastic find at the thrift store! The 66 series is a stunning looker and performer. I have had several over the years and kept the best one of each model (Brown, white, wood and wood victory so far). Well done!-Ray>

StarMover · #23 05-23-2009, 02:09 AM

I finished replacing all the wax caps and brittle wire. I need help replacing the electrolytic cap 20mfd (the large one on the left). Not sure how to wire it up. The old cap has 5 wires coming out of it. Assume one side to chassis ground, everything else to the other end?

jeyurkon · #24 05-23-2009, 12:14 PM

Forgive me if I explain something that you might already know.

You need four 20uF electrolytic capacitors to replace this multi-section electrolytic. Each of their negative leads will go to chassis ground. This is only true because your set uses a power transformer. Hot chassis sets would have a seperate ground.

The positive end of each electrolytic would go to where each of the other four leads of the current capacitor connects.

John

StarMover · #25 05-23-2009, 01:47 PM

Thanks John! I'm still getting my head around this electronics sutff. My first thought was that this was a multi-value cap, then I saw marked on the side only one of the values was highlighted with a black dot, so I ordered only one (and a spare in case I screwed up). All the values were 20uf, just different voltages. Can all the new 20uf electrolytics have the same voltage rating (450) or should I match the values of hte old cap?

jeyurkon · #26 05-23-2009, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StarMover

Thanks John! I'm still getting my head around this electronics sutff. My first thought was that this was a multi-value cap, then I saw marked on the side only one of the values was highlighted with a black dot, so I ordered only one (and a spare in case I screwed up). All the values were 20uf, just different voltages. Can all the new 20uf electrolytics have the same voltage rating (450) or should I match the values of hte old cap?

As long as the voltage ratings of the new caps are the same as, or higher than, the old caps you'll be fine.

John

Sandy G · #27 05-23-2009, 05:23 PM

I'm REALLY interested in how well this l'il guy performs after you get him all squared away...I'm bettin' you'll be pleasantly surprised !

StarMover · #28 05-23-2009, 09:09 PM

I'm just hoping I don't screw something up. I'm trying to be real carefull. I've replaced all the caps now, only need to acquire to more of the 20uf electrolytic caps. I broke a resistor, so I've also got to score a replacement for that. I hope rat shack has these parts, there is no longer an 'old school' electronics shop here. Most internet sellers have a minimum order $$.

StarMover · #29 05-24-2009, 08:59 PM

Here is the Crosley Model 66-TA radio mocked up on the bench. It looks pretty nice. The case was cleaned with polishing compound and waxed. The clear plastic dial cover is cleaned and reinstalled. The unit had been splattered with paint. what a PITA to clean all those thousands of white dots off!

Under the hood I still have to replace two more electrolytic caps plus the resistor I broke. I'll go hunting parts locally next week. I can't wait to see if it works.

Question: Would the original power cord have been cloth-covered? I don't think this cord is original. It has a 60s vintage plug.

Edit: I found an identical 66 in a wood case on the auction site. See pic attached.

jeyurkon · #30 05-24-2009, 09:39 PM

I doubt that the cord was cloth covered, but perhaps someone knows for sure. There are some very nice reproductions out there if you decide to go with cloth.

My 1948 Arvin had a rubber cord and this link has replacements that are very nearly identical to what the Arvin used. http://www.radioantiques.com/supplies.html#cords

John