1960s Sylvania Color TV: My first all tube color TV

[vortalexfan]

I saw that my Sylvania TV is in Sam's 1045-2 which I don't have a physical copy of and I try to avoid buying the PDF copies from them unless I have no choice in the matter because I think its ridiculous to charge $22 for a PDF reproduction of an original service manual that may or may not be of that great of quality compared to the original paper document, and feebay is hit or miss on having original Sam's Photofacts for sale, and some times they want just as much on feebay for an original Paper copy as Sam's does for a PDF reproduction. Which is why if someone on here has an original paper copy that they can scan and upload I prefer to go that route rather than having to pay $22 for a photocopy of an original Sam's, or if I can hold out for someone locally that might have a bunch of old sam's folders that they are liquidating from their collection for a decent price, like what Shango did.

[vortalexfan]

Well, I did suprisingly enough manage to find an original hard copy of Sam's folder #1045 (the whole folder, not just one of the sections out of the folder) for $9 plus shipping.

But I had to search a little bit because there weren't many listings for individual Sam's folders, they were mostly just listing the compilation books or selling a set of Photofact Folders as a lot (with one such listing being listed for $800 for a set of 50 complete Photofact folders that were in no particular order) with only 2 listings that were selling individual folders out of a lot of 50 or 100 Sam's Folders, that I'm assuming came from an old repair shop or an old Library collection.
The one listing that was selling individual folders out of a full lot of Sam's folders had Folder 1045 but it was already sold, and the second listing had 2 Sam's 1045 folders and one had already sold and I had just bought the last one out of that lot.

So it seems that these Sam's folders are getting harder to come by unfortunately.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Do you happen to remember the + source those two resistors are fed from? Seems like it as a lot higher than 24V, but I could be wrong. Also I could be wrong on the 27K value, but that's the figure that sticks in mind. A schematic would sure be handy.

According to the circuit Board the + Voltage feeding those resistors is +340 volts.

According to the resistor color coding on the 2 2W carbon comp resistors you're referring to are supposed to be 68k Ohm resistors and then there are 3 green wirewound resistors on the same board that are 27k Ohm 3W power resistors which all measure within spec yet, but the 2 2W Carbon Comp Resistors which are supposed to be 68k Ohms are measuring only 16k Ohms or so, so it sounds like those carbon comp resistors need to go bye-bye, because they are WAAAAAYYYY out of tolerance.

Probably what I'll do to replace those 2W 68k Ohm resistors is cut them off on either side of the resistor element casing and then solder a new one onto what's left of the wire connectors above the board so that way I don't have to worry about risking damaging the circuit traces underneath the board, since they left about a 1/4" of wire lead above the board surface.

[old_coot88]

IMHO you'd be better off waitin for a Sams to double-verify those resistors' value. Code stripes can change color from excessive heat over long duration. Gotta wonder if the two transistors might still be good though.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

IMHO you'd be better off waitin for a Sams to double-verify those resistors' value. Code stripes can change color from excessive heat over long duration. Gotta wonder if the two transistors might still be good though.

I have a Sam's on order from feebay, that is an original full 1045 Folder that I got for $13, it supposed to be here sometime this week.

When I get that folder I'll take a look at the manual for the TV and double check the resistor values.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Greetings everyone, I will be picking up tomorrow locally a mid to late 1960s Sylvania Color TV that appears to be from what I can see of the pictures an all tube Color TV or perhaps a hybrid (I'm not sure becuse the pictures I saw of the inside of the unit were kind of limited to a small area of the main chassis where I saw at least two or three tubes in the picture and the convergence board and the picture tube besides a front view and a back view of the unit with the cover on the back.

The person who listed it on facebook marketplace said her husband picked it up at a garage sale several years back with the intention to fix it up but he lost interest in it, she said that when he powered it up it produced sound but no picture which I'm wondering if either the HV Rectifier is dead or maybe they were too impatient to wait for it to produce a picture, especially if it didn't come equipped with the "instant on" feature. One thing I did notice about the TV from the pictures of the inside of the set that I could see, is that it looks to be a low hours set because it has very little dust built up on the picture tube and on the chassis, and the TV appears to have the original Sylvania picture tube in it yet and the cabinet looks darn near mint.

what do you guys think, will this be a good TV when fixed up and what kinds of things should I look out for when trying to restore this set?

Thanks for your help.

See pictures below.

How did the Masonite back get all broken up.
It must be a curbside pickup, that someone tried to get to the yoke!

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

How did the Masonite back get all broken up.
It must be a curbside pickup, that someone tried to get to the yoke!

I don't know how the back cover got broken, I just know that the person I got it from on facebook market place said that her husband picked it up from a garage sale 10+ years ago and intended to fix it up but had some health problems that got in the way of that endevor.

[old_tv_nut]

I haven't heard of problems caused by tipping a picture tube forward. Camera tubes, yes, but not picture tubes.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

I haven't heard of problems caused by tipping a picture tube forward. Camera tubes, yes, but not picture tubes.

That's interesting because I've worked on several old portable color TVs from the 1980s and and even a few non-portable units from the 1980s that when I tipped the TV forward (or maybe it was on its side) the picture tube would get messed up by looking like someone ran a powerful magnet across the screen and that would be the end of the TV.

Any ideas as to what I was experiencing and what would be the best way to avoid that?

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

That's interesting because I've worked on several old portable color TVs from the 1980s and and even a few non-portable units from the 1980s that when I tipped the TV forward (or maybe it was on its side) the picture tube would get messed up by looking like someone ran a powerful magnet across the screen and that would be the end of the TV.

Any ideas as to what I was experiencing and what would be the best way to avoid that?

You have to use a degaussing coil. I also used a tape demagnetizer.

[zeno]

Several ways to handle chassis

GOOD
Remove legs if it has them. they either unscrew or twist off. Put the
set on its side & remove all but one rear chassis bolt. The chassis will swing out to work on.

BETTER
Same idea. Put TV on bench upright with a few feet behind it. Find a box
about the same HGT, pull chassis & flip out onto box.

BEST
A test jig but you dont have one !

BTW the purity will be way off while on its side running. Also just
be sure you dont pull wires too tight. Take it slow.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

That's interesting because I've worked on several old portable color TVs from the 1980s and and even a few non-portable units from the 1980s that when I tipped the TV forward (or maybe it was on its side) the picture tube would get messed up by looking like someone ran a powerful magnet across the screen and that would be the end of the TV.

Any ideas as to what I was experiencing and what would be the best way to avoid that?

This sounds like the shadow mask was previously broken loose and got permanently dislodged when you tilted it.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

This sounds like the shadow mask was previously broken loose and got permanently dislodged when you tilted it.

OK thanks for letting me know.

[vortalexfan]

UPDATE: I finally got around to removing the chassis from the cabinet and I tested the electrolytic caps and they all tested good yet according to my ESR Meter, and that would make sense seeing as the TV still had full screen deflection.

I also poked around and tested a few of the resistors on the various boards in the TV and the resistors for the most part tested within specs yet, those two 68k Ohm 2W resistors were the only resistors that measured out of tolerance and so I put in an order for some over at Digikey (because Mouser didn't have any 68k Ohm 2W Resistors in stock unfortunately) also the two 68k Ohm 2W resistors were the main resistors you guys said would give me the most trouble.

I also was able to clean the pots and the switches better with the chassis out of the cabinet.

[Electronic M]

For chassis removal I forget if the D12 was this way(I think so but it's been like 5 years since I had mine apart), but the D16 definitely is....On Sylvania sets of that era the chassis slides into 2 side rails and locks to those rails with 2 rear facing screws. Remove the screws and unplug all wires and the chassis just slides out the back.

I've never worked on 80s inline sets or seen what you describe. Delta gun sets like this Sylvania don't care about orientation* and replacements were shipped face down.
*In service they would sometimes need purity adjustment and or degauss when moved from facing north-south to east-west but no permanent issues otherwise.