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#2
11-02-2020, 02:27 PM
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Dammit, but now the speedometer cable chatters.
 That cable was a pain in the ass to separate from the cluster. It's right above the column support and the end is plastic, not metal so it's really easy to snap off and you pretty much have to crawl under the dash and reach in with one arm and one eyeball clearly seeing where your hand is while you hold a flashlight in your mouth. You barely get enough space for a finger and thumb to grab the knurl on the cable, unthread it and pull it two inches back to remove the cable. Anyways I did get it out and even before I pulled anything the cluster had an annoying habit of developing a "sque.........eek" that came and went, so I took a drop or two of 3 in 1 to the speedometer port and shot some lithium grease down the cable.....yet somehow I made it even worse. Last edited by MIPS; 11-02-2020 at 02:31 PM. 
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#5
11-03-2020, 02:20 PM
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Eugh. I had a suspicion that would be the problem potentially but I really cannot spare any enthusiasm for a job like that. Fun quirk about this car is that because it has dealer installed cruise control and not factory, you have to be careful when selecting a replacement cable and sleeve or you will end up with one too short.
I mean, the cable and sleeve replacement kits are not hard to find and they are cheap but I would rather not deal with that crap now that we're dropping below freezing at night. 
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#7
12-08-2020, 03:21 PM
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Nice, I have two Eagles on the road. An 86 wagon and an 82 SX/4.
I had knock and temp issues for years with the 86, even with the knock sensor active.
__________________
All my equipment is older than me.
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#8
01-27-2021, 02:43 PM
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As anyone might of notices, mechanically the car has been pretty quiet for a while now.
AND THEN THIS MORNING.    Driving home from the night shift on mainly dry roads when the rear passenger axle snaps. After calling BCAA and getting it hitched up (ironically, it was the same person who towed me way the hell back when the transmission failed so he remembered me  ) and dropped off at the shop with a jack stand under the axle I didn't get to bed until 3:30 this morning.So what happened here is I'm pretty sure it's nothing I did that caused this. I'm still hunting down the bulletin but for a short period someone didn't have their torque driver set right and the rear passenger axle nut was overtightened. It's apparently very common for cars that missed the bulletin back in the 80's to snap their axle inside the hub and then strip out the splines. Eagles use the AMC model 35 axle which is derived from the Dana model 35, but they are not the same so in the middle of winter I have to head out into the snow and see if I can dig out another axle shaft in the dead of winter.
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#12
04-03-2021, 10:45 PM
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Hrm. :/
So all has been good and happy since the axle snap and a few weeks ago I elected to complete the work on the front by replacing the tie rod ends, the pitman arm and then sending it to a shop for the strut rod bushings, the lower control arm bushings and the lower ball joints which I finally managed to track down. Save for the spring perch bushings that I cannot find there's no more bushing left in the steering and suspension left to replace. It's all new. I elected to leave the job to a shop because I don't have the tools at the moment to spin off the CV nuts and push the CV's out so I could then drop the lower control arm. It all came back nice and aligned and felt great. Then today I did my annual oil and filter change and on inspection I found one of my CV boots had slipped off and the other was slinging grease. At some point since I changed the tie rod ends the metal boot clamps disappeared and in their place on both sides was a black zip tie.  I'm clearly going to raise hell at the shop on Monday because that would of been a very, very expensive breakdown but I don't understand why they would of needed to remove the boot straps unless instead of pushing the CV out of the bearing hub they just pulled the CV apart. That makes no sense. Also I got a ton of flak from people because I use Fram oil filters. I've been using them for over ten years with no issues but apparently they had a period a few years ago where the build quality was not great and now they are engine-ruining pieces of trash? I'm not totally buying this but I'm curious what happened.
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#13
04-05-2021, 03:35 AM
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Well they may not have been able to get the cv axle out of the hub. So to save your hub and bearing from the destructive forces needed to remove the axle, they probably just took it apart. However, I'll never understand how mechanics seem to think that a pissant zip tie can hold an axle boot on. The worst part is that generic stainless steel tie straps are cheap and available, and there's really no excuse not to keep some around your shop.
If I were you I would give them the keys and say nothing besides: "You ziptied my axle boots on. Fix it right this time."
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#14
04-05-2021, 02:16 PM
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I got my explanation today. Kinda makes sense.
The new ball joints include a grease nipple, but it was discovered once everything was reinstalled (he did actually push the CV out of the hub and not just separate them) that on the first rotation the clamp hit the nipple and trashed the clamp on both sides. Our solution is to remove the grease nipples and put much lower profile NPT plugs in the holes, then just switch in the nipples every time I add more grease. Quote:
Anyways its dealt with now. I'll pick up the extra bits and they'll be installing it at no cost.
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#15
04-05-2021, 11:53 PM
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Yeah the pinch clamps are not common. But basic stainless tie straps are a Harbor Freight item. Granted, theirs kind of suck, but still better than nothing.
Also, the zerk fitting is a good inch away from the clamp's travel, and it's still present in that last photo. So, um... >_>
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