Found a 19" Chromacolor II

[DavGoodlin]

I have 1-2 22-5001 also, orange drops not the white tubes

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

I have 1-2 22-5001 also, orange drops not the white tubes

See? Collective parts scrounging - it's what kept my dad in business for years. Three other TV shops in the collective, one ol' guy that had junk from Goodwill, and two sons that knew how to strip a color chassis to the frame. Those collective efforts saved the day when the distributor was out of stock, the part was needed on a Saturday evening, or when the dang part went NLA. Kind of like stone soup.....

I forgot to mention - mine is also the orange drop, new in the gaudy Zenith plastic bag.

Cheers,

[Eric H]

Cool, I might have a lead on three of the Caps over at A.R.F. and a possible Tripler too so with one more Cap from you I should be good to go!

[Dude111]

Originally Posted by Erik H

I had to poke it a few more times to get it to stay running but apparently the issue is just a cold solder joint on this transistor.

Good for you Erik -- I do hope ya get alot of enjoyment

[Eric H]

Well I got one NOS Zenith 22-5001 and three Genuine NOS 1600 volt Orange Drops from 1979 so I installed all of them in place of the old white tubular caps and bingo, I now have a reasonable 26kv at the anode.
The picture isn't pulled in on the side anymore so probably the extreme HV was shrinking the picture before.

The set still has issues, the tint range won't stay put, something on the Chroma board is loose or dirty, it changes when I mess with it, also has some video smearing which might also be dirty connectors on the modules, the board connectors always were problematic on these sets even thirty+ years ago, we used to just solder them to the pins during service calls to make sure we didn't get a call back.

This whole set is very dirty so it'll probably get a total teardown and cleaning at some point, the only way to get the cabinet clean will be to wash it in the bathtub.

[radiotvnut]

Sounds like you saved it just before it went BOOM. Just for fun, I'd check the old capacitors just to see how many are bad.

[Eric H]

Here's another screen shot after resoldering the Chroma board, it's looking pretty good!

I'd check the old caps if I had a way to do so.

[Eric H]

I remembered I have an old Eico Cap tester, all the caps cause a blip of the eye tube except this one, it's completely open.

Probably lucky only one was bad, who knows how high the voltage might have gone if both of them opened up.

I also don't know what took this set out of service, possibly the bad solder on the Horiz Driver transistor caused it to lose high voltage first, then when I fixed that the open cap (went bad while sitting perhaps?) blew out the Tripler?

I suspect this because the Tripler wasn't arcing at first, it wasn't until I soldered the Osc board that it started arcing.

On the other had the Tripler had a pretty large crack in it, more than I think it would have had in the breif time I ran it while arcing, so possibly that it had failed first because of the bad cap and the Osc board might have failed during storage.

It was rather fortunate it had no Oscillator because they no doubt plugged it in at the thrift before I got it, they might have run it long enough to do serious damage if it had fired up.

[zeno]

Nice work. A crude test on the caps is grab them by
the leads with needle noses & pull. They usually
come apart. Triplers cracked open left & right on
most sets back then. RCA seemed to have the least problem.
I remember now 977-36 was the latest # for this tripler.
Used to get them by the dozen from Zenith for $10
each, almost as good a profit as tubes.......

73 Zeno

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by zeno

Nice work. A crude test on the caps is grab them by
the leads with needle noses & pull. They usually
come apart. Triplers cracked open left & right on
most sets back then. RCA seemed to have the least problem.
I remember now 977-36 was the latest # for this tripler.
Used to get them by the dozen from Zenith for $10
each, almost as good a profit as tubes.......

73 Zeno

The polymide epoxy used as end seals on the white caps (Elmenco and ASI were two brands) shrinks over time, pulling away from the ceramic case. The impregnant leaks, and you have a bad cap. I've got NOS ceramic caps that went bad on the shelf - it was the epoxy end seals that failed, with no stress from being installed in anything. Heat accelerates the shrinkage, which is why the big .1/1000 in GE porta-pottys typically fails - it sits right next to a nice hot compactron.

The triplers were made either by VARO or EDI. EDI ones held up pretty good - they typically used a polypropylene shell that "gave" a bit when warm. This helped prevent cracking. VARO (light gray, or the ubiquitous Sylvania white) typically failed with cracking or arcing. VARO fixed their problems and outlasted EDI in making triplers. The replacement ones (ECG/SK/GE) were hit and miss, as you could have two same-marking ECG523s, one an early VARO and one a later one. They cleared up things somewhat in adding the "a" suffix to the ECG number. Occasionally the non-"a" triplers appear on eBay - avoid them unless there is a date code of 1980 or later, hard to tell in most photos.

The orange drops have differences too - the pulse rated ones (715P and 716P) are made of polypropylene (PP or even MPP) dielectric, and should be the ones used. The polyester ones (225P and 418P, and "PS" series) were for non-pulse coupling and bypass use, and should not be used in pulse applications such as safety caps. The higher voltage 225P and PS series caps were for buffer caps replacement in old car radios using a vibrator supply.

Cheers,