|
|
|
#16
07-10-2013, 02:57 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'm not sure what you're talking about there, sounds like extra resistance will be going to the built-in speaker, can't have that. By the way, ever get the ultrasonic hearing issue sorted out with the roomie? Oh, my bad, you must have, otherwise the telly would be waking her up even with the volume all the way down.
|
|
#17
07-10-2013, 03:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Never did but she quit complaining about that.
I really don't understand then. Someone needs to draw it out on paper what I'm to do. I'm slightly autistic so I don't always understand what to do when spoken out and just need a schematic.
|
|
#18
07-10-2013, 03:25 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Unfortunately I can't do drawings on my computer, so I'll do my best to water down my tech-talk. By the way, I have a high-functioning sort of autism called Asperger's syndrome.
Do you have a multi-meter that can be set on ohms? Or better yet, a diagram that came with the jack? I assume that the "returns" you speak of are the left/right speaker + connectors that will be going to the built-in speaker, two terminals that will have to be connected together before going to the speaker, no resistor needed there. Without headphones plugged in, you'll have a direct chassis-to-speaker connection through the jack. The left/right + terminals on the chassis side of the jack will have to be bridged as well, and the resistor connected between those and the pins that are only active with headphones plugged in, which also have to be bridged. Last edited by Jon A.; 07-10-2013 at 03:31 PM.
|
|
#20
07-10-2013, 03:49 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Good stuff. No need for any fancy footwork with the ground connections of course, it's just a single wire going to single terminals on the speaker and the jack. Direct connect all around.
Sometimes I have to re-read things a few times before I actually "get it". It can be frustrating.
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#21
07-10-2013, 03:50 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
So here's a problem I'm trying to work out. The headphone jack has its returns which are going right to the built in speaker, directly connected to the inputs on the jack when no headphones are plugged in. What I see is any resistor on the headphones, are directly going to affect the speaker no matter what.
This may be ok though, the speaker is far too loud easily as the knob is very sensitive.
|
|
#22
07-10-2013, 03:56 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
That seems odd to me. Only one side of that resistor would be technically "connected" to anything without headphones plugged in. I don't see how that could possibly affect the built-in speaker's performance.
|
|
#24
07-10-2013, 04:35 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
One disadvantage in using a Mac, it doesn't even have a paint program. It's my only computer. The GIMP program isn't an option at this time, it would take forever to bring down over my connection. Kind of pointless to download it to make only one drawing anyway. The only practical solution is for me to draw one up by hand, then take it to the library and run it through a scanner (another thing I lack), unless someone else can chime in first.
Last edited by Jon A.; 07-10-2013 at 04:45 PM.
|
|
#25
07-10-2013, 04:59 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well I tried to cheat. The hitachi my little sister now had from my sig had a headphone jack, and I peaked at how it's wired. It wired like this.
Speaker directly to negative. Headphone jacks return directly wired to speakers positive. Headphone jacks tip wired directly to positive. Headphone jack wired to negative with a resistor. Does that sound right and feasible for use in my Samsung?
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#27
07-10-2013, 05:16 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I never thought of tying the resistor to ground, sounds like it could work. That would be a mono jack if it's a factory setup. You would need to bridge the jack inputs together and the jack outputs together on your set though.
Edit: Close enough. 
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
