What to do on used sets?

[coppercity]

Thanks guys for all your feedback. Very helpful, I like to collect a different era of TV then most of you. I only really collect 90's stuff, I guess because of that's the era I grew up in. But I would not pass up a 40's set.

Eric H, go ahead and toss out the 90's stuff, it will just make what I keep rarer ;-) LOL

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by coppercity

Eric H, go ahead and toss out the 90's stuff, it will just make what I keep rarer ;-) LOL

I saved an oddball '91 set. My main interest is early solid-state as that is what was common when I was a kid, but I wasn't letting this one get away.

[Retro in RI]

Originally Posted by Eric H

It really depends on the set, stuff from the 80's will likely need nothing unless they use knobs, then they might need some cleaning and lube.

Some 70's sets like the Zenith CCII need to have the safety caps checked so you don't blow the tripler and CRT, and of course that era will need Pots and tuners cleaned.

Preventive recapping is always an option, particularly in the sweep circuits where the most problems occur. You can prevent a Vertical IC or a HO Transistor from getting destroyed with some fresh caps.

90's and up just watch them till they die then toss em.

I just picked up a Zenith CCII. I understand cleaning the pots, but what are the safety caps and how do I check them? I'm pretty handy around cars and houses but new to electronics so please bear with me. This is one set I actually paid for and I don't want any problems if it can be prevented. Thanks.

Al

[radiotvnut]

What's the chassis number (or model number) on your new Zenith?

[sampson159]

if its a ccII,just plug it in and enjoy!check for the white safety cap.thats about it.those sets are almost 40 years old and no reason why they wont last 40 more

[TVTim]

What is "CCII"?

[zeno]

Originally Posted by TVTim

What is "CCII"?

Chromacolor 2
Chromacolor was the trade name for Zeniths black matrix CRT
which became the standard. First was 1969 IIRC. When they
came out with there first solid state it was called Super Chromacolor.
This is known as the "flat chassis" to many & considered the best
color set ever made by anyone. They were made for C,D & part
of the E line in two major chassis designs.
Chromacolor 2 was the trade name for the next chassis.
Its the "upright" chassis & also popular. Made from E through
K line sets and poss L line ??. There were 2 major chassis designs. One for delta CRT's & another for the new EFL CTR sets. They also re arranged things & stuffed it in a nice little 13" set. After that it was System 3 chassis like your set.

73 Zeno

[Retro in RI]

Originally Posted by radiotvnut

What's the chassis number (or model number) on your new Zenith?

Ok, I'll look for some numbers and get back to you. By "caps" do you mean capacitors? Like I said, newbie here.

It's a really good looking set, 1974 I believe. Black, chrome, woodgrain, and the front kind of looks like it's on a pedestal. The speaker is under the pedestal area. Sorry can't get any pics, I'm on the library pc. It's got a few quirks with the sound and picure (mostly when diring first 1/2 hr) that I'd like to clear up, even if I need to take it to some one from here who lives an hour or two away, that is if i can't clear them up on my own with your help.

Thanks.

Al

[Retro in RI]

Originally Posted by sampson159

if its a ccII,just plug it in and enjoy!check for the white safety cap.thats about it.those sets are almost 40 years old and no reason why they wont last 40 more

Once I get the glitches worked out, I hope it does run another 40 yrs : )

[zeno]

Originally Posted by Retro in RI

I just picked up a Zenith CCII. I understand cleaning the pots, but what are the safety caps and how do I check them? I'm pretty handy around cars and houses but new to electronics so please bear with me. This is one set I actually paid for and I don't want any problems if it can be prevented. Thanks.

Al

OK check the chassis number. Its stamped in ink on the metal part of the chassis. The sets effected were
17EC45, 19EC45 & 25EC45 runs 401 and higher.
17FC45, 19FC45 & 25FC45 all runs.
Often there is a tag on the back saying "4 lead capacitor modified"
if it has it you are OK.
Also EC chassis under run 401 have a similar problem that needs
addressing but not as critical.
Let us know what you got.

73 Zeno

[Retro in RI]

Originally Posted by zeno

OK check the chassis number. Its stamped in ink on the metal part of the chassis. The sets effected were
17EC45, 19EC45 & 25EC45 runs 401 and higher.
17FC45, 19FC45 & 25FC45 all runs.
Often there is a tag on the back saying "4 lead capacitor modified"
if it has it you are OK.
Also EC chassis under run 401 have a similar problem that needs
addressing but not as critical.
Let us know what you got.

73 Zeno

Thanks. I took the back off last night and found the following stamped ink code c 19EC45, which I see you have listed. There are a couple of tags on the back, one is too faded to read, but the other is legible. I'll check what it says when I get home.

Thanks again for your help guys!!

Al

[Retro in RI]

Ok, one tag is faded and says "for all correspondence must include chassis number........" (too faded to read)

The other tag, which overlaps the first, simply gives the serial number, which is 5429025.

I was disappointed to not see the other tag you mentioned.

Al

[zeno]

Originally Posted by Retro in RI

Ok, one tag is faded and says "for all correspondence must include chassis number........" (too faded to read)

The other tag, which overlaps the first, simply gives the serial number, which is 5429025.

I was disappointed to not see the other tag you mentioned.

Al

Best find out what you have.
Look on top right side of chassis the hoz output transistor is there.
Just below the heat sink see if there is a large cap there with
4 wires. If its orange you are OK. If its white you MUST change it
before running it. If it opens the HV will go up to 40KV ++
& do a lot of damage including the CRT sometimes.

If not there its an early run. It will have IIRC 5 separate caps
marked 22-5001. One behind heat sink, 1 or 2 on flyback & the
rest on the bottom on the chassis. Again orange is good & white needs
replacing off ALL but its not as critical.

73 Zeno

[Retro in RI]

Originally Posted by zeno

Best find out what you have.
Look on top right side of chassis the hoz output transistor is there.
Just below the heat sink see if there is a large cap there with
4 wires. If its orange you are OK. If its white you MUST change it
before running it. If it opens the HV will go up to 40KV ++
& do a lot of damage including the CRT sometimes.

If not there its an early run. It will have IIRC 5 separate caps
marked 22-5001. One behind heat sink, 1 or 2 on flyback & the
rest on the bottom on the chassis. Again orange is good & white needs
replacing off ALL but its not as critical.

73 Zeno

Ok, Ill take it apart and check and report my findings. Thanks again for the help. I don't want to see this thing fry.

Al

[Retro in RI]

Originally Posted by zeno

Best find out what you have.
Look on top right side of chassis the hoz output transistor is there.
Just below the heat sink see if there is a large cap there with
4 wires. If its orange you are OK. If its white you MUST change it
before running it. If it opens the HV will go up to 40KV ++
& do a lot of damage including the CRT sometimes.

If not there its an early run. It will have IIRC 5 separate caps
marked 22-5001. One behind heat sink, 1 or 2 on flyback & the
rest on the bottom on the chassis. Again orange is good & white needs
replacing off ALL but its not as critical.

73 Zeno

Ok. I spent a good deal of time studying this thing with it face down on my living room floor.(Padding underneath) I found the hoz output and heat sink but no large cap beneath. By cap I'm assuming a cilyndrical object (shaped like, but not neccessarily the size of, a roll of coins) with wires at each end (sorry, new b here)
I saw nothing like that. But i did see the small white caps marked 22-5001. There were at least five in and around the areas you mentioned. Where can I get these? Just unsolder and solder in new ones? How much should I pay? Any part/reference number I should ask for. What problem will replacement of these prevent?

Btw, the inside of the 63 looks way less intimidating. : o

Thanks again.

Al