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  #16  
Old 05-16-2013, 12:22 AM
andy andy is offline
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Last edited by andy; 12-05-2021 at 08:01 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2013, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1 View Post
And that scope is fully an X-Y mode scope, just put both vert. and horiz. inputs at the top left and right to ext. and then attach something to those inputs and you have X-Y display. (Again be careful with the grounds!) Some of those things might even have a Z cutoff. I have one like that made by one of Tektronix's little brothers.
Here's what I'm trying to hook up to it:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9306

I tried it before I recapped the scope, but it was a disjointed image. Haven't tried it since, as I was under the assumption that it wouldn't work. On the PCB, there's an X, a Y, and a ground. Do I ground it to the scope, and if so, where?
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:43 AM
bob91343 bob91343 is offline
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It will never work to your satisfaction. You need, I think, a direct coupled input circuit, which the Hickok does not have. So every time the time changes the display will bounce and move to a different spot. I am not familiar with that clock but it may have a digital output, which makes further demands on the 'scope.
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2013, 01:33 PM
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You may remember that I said your scope most likely will not be able to show a wave form with a DC offset applied to it. Your clock most likely relies on a dc offset to put that picture on the scope. Because you can not get a display with dc offset, the clock may move around the screen. In a way, you are seeing what some people here complain about when a tv does not have a dc restoration circuit for picture tube bias.......

The ground form the clock can go to any ground post you see on the front of the scope. Your X and Y go to the vert, and Horiz. input at top right and left on the scope. Most likely not the direct input since its a 15v and 30v input, your clock is most likely less, so use one of the other low voltage scales and that includes access to the amplitude adjustments on the scope, its in the instructions. And also when the sync is set to ext. you have access to a Z axis blanking of the crt, that is pretty special for stuff like turning the scope into a clock because you can blank the retrace lines..... Read that instruction book a few times.... Your clock also has info on using the z axis its in the faq's

Now if the cycle time of the clock is fast enough, and it sounds like it is.... then the 505 will not be such a factor in not supporting dc offset because the clock cycles the screen so fast....

Since you already have it you gotta try it.

You can look into lowering the baud rate if you need to for the slower scope you have....
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Last edited by Username1; 05-16-2013 at 01:55 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2013, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Something to keep in mind is that the 505A is not a typical oscilloscope. It appears to be meant for use with external sweep and RF generators for alignment work.
Picked me up one of these on eBay cheap, local too. Would this be what I need?
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  #21  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:46 PM
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does it have a lotta lights that flash...?

Now you need a few metal boxes wit stuff that turns by itself, like lost in space alien matter generator machines, and a bigger box what has those spark things that climb 2 metal rods like in the Frankenstein movies...... And a fog machine.

Then yer set!
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  #22  
Old 07-11-2013, 05:53 AM
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The only thing creepier looking than old TV test equipment to the casual glance would be vintage medical equipment, when you think about it
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  #23  
Old 07-11-2013, 09:44 AM
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I agree old medical equipment is very creepy. Old electronics however has that Sci-Fi mystery look to it. I for example love my old Hickock Oscilloscope, I think its got somewhere between 20 and 500 tubes tons of knobs, a sweep delay that is very much looking like a combination lock dial, a big RED pilot light, metal toggle power switch next to the pilot light, and a 8" fan and air filter in the back. And oh-yah 2 handles on top and weighs about 100 lbs. And has a IIHS 5 star crash test rating from the institute of electron tube safety for all the tubes inside.
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