#16
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Thanks guys for the insight on dating when the TV was serviced!
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#17
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Since this has gone from a "set for sale" thread to a repair thread I decided to move it to this forum. I left a redirect for one week so everyone can find it.
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#18
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I have this set too. Very thick Bakelite and heavy as can be. Mine is actually a copper plated chassis. Chassis 20T1. I also have the 14" console to match. Extremely well made and great sets once restored.
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#19
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Quote:
Thanks for the relocation. I was going to shut down the For Sale thread and start a restoration thread. |
#20
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I'm looking forward to restoring this TV. This is my first Admiral and you're right. The cabinet is stout!
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Audiokarma |
#21
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Quote:
Good luck, please make sure to document and post pictures. |
#22
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Just to let everyone know, this set uses a 14CP4 CRT. It is a model 14R12 with a 20T1 chassis. Brown Bakelite cabinet.
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#23
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Quote:
This model doesn't use the audio output, as the voltage divider, like the 20Z1, a year earlier. |
#24
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I think you said 14BP4 in the classifieds post. Looking at the specs for 14CP4 and 14BP4 they look very close. Both spherical faces I believe.
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#25
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Quote:
It's probably 50 years ago, since I bought and installed one. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Today I started on the restoration for reals. I again checked the CRT on my BK 467. All I could get is a .45 reading. Still into the red even after about a half hour. I then decided to try it in my 16" AMC TV. So I swapped the CRT's and the 14" gives a decent picture. Now it was a little out of focus, but it was bright enough! My shop is well lit and the picture showed up real good with all the lights on. So I'm proceeding wit the restoration.
Next up is to check the transformers and coils etc. Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-03-2016 at 09:04 PM. |
#27
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Earlier in this thread, there was a discussion on the CRT. It looks like it is a replacement. It has not been rebuilt. It is a CBS Hytron 14CP4. I couldn't read the date code.
This CRT has 2 getters. One on each side of the neck between 2 bands of the internal aquadag. I'm including some pictures of the label and what the getters look like. Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-03-2016 at 09:03 PM. |
#28
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After a good look over, I pulled the HV rectifier tube and the lead off the 1B3GT tube then powered up the chassis using my variac and meters. No problems and all the tubes lit up. I used my meter to check the HV rectifier and 1B3GT tube heaters. All checked ok.
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#29
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Why did you pull the 1B3 ? No harm is gong to come from leaving it installed.
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#30
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You're right. Seeing the rectifier tube was pulled. Just being overly cautious and still being new to this.
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Audiokarma |
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