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  #31  
Old 04-22-2020, 10:32 AM
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Notimetolooz Notimetolooz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
What do you mean the selenium rectifier wasn't replaced correctly? I think its original to the unit, which I'm thinking of replacing it with a 1N4007 Diode.
Apparently some restorers connect a Si rectifier diode across the selenium one without disconnecting the selenium. I even saw that in a book about radio restoration. It isn't a good idea because the old rectifier can leak reverse current.Since your generator had been re-capped I thought that might be the case.
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  #32  
Old 04-22-2020, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
I don't know anything about the Victor brand.
The Heathkit is older because Nixie tubes were used before LED displays were used. Also the corrosion on the BNC is not a good sign,
My first counter was similar to that B&K. The display on mine became unreliable, I believe because of a connector issue. My model didn't go very high in frequency so I decided to trade up.
Note that both the Heathkit and the B&K used a power cord connector with
round pins, unlike the common power cords now which have flat blades.
I not wild about any of those three.
Well that Hewlett-Packard one that that I previously Posted about that's like yours is still available, I'm just not too keen on having to pay over $60 for shipping on an item that's only $30, I'm not even quite sure why that the shipping on that is over $60 when other frequency counters that are similar in size and traveling a similar distance to get to me have only $10-$15 shipping costs.
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  #33  
Old 04-22-2020, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
Well that Hewlett-Packard one that that I previously Posted about that's like yours is still available, I'm just not too keen on having to pay over $60 for shipping on an item that's only $30, I'm not even quite sure why that the shipping on that is over $60 when other frequency counters that are similar in size and traveling a similar distance to get to me have only $10-$15 shipping costs.
In some cases that is the difference between packing it to survive shipping abuse, and just throwing it in box loosely or in the case of a friend who bought a used BT modulator off eBay throwing it in a plastic bag with a shipping label pasted on....but then again some sellers try to profit off the shipping if they can't get the margin they want on the item it's self...
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  #34  
Old 04-22-2020, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
Apparently some restorers connect a Si rectifier diode across the selenium one without disconnecting the selenium. I even saw that in a book about radio restoration. It isn't a good idea because the old rectifier can leak reverse current.Since your generator had been re-capped I thought that might be the case.
It has no silicone diode going across the selenium in this unit, its just the selenium rectifier.
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  #35  
Old 04-22-2020, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
In some cases that is the difference between packing it to survive shipping abuse, and just throwing it in box loosely or in the case of a friend who bought a used BT modulator off eBay throwing it in a plastic bag with a shipping label pasted on....but then again some sellers try to profit off the shipping if they can't get the margin they want on the item it's self...
I agree about packing things well so that it doesn't get damaged but that doesn't require a $60 shipping charge though, my Heathkit signal generator had a $20 shipping charge and it was well packed and survived the trip undamaged, and the packing job that was done on that didn't require no $60 shipping charge, I think that person is just trying to cover his butt because he probably isn't going to pack it well.
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  #36  
Old 04-22-2020, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
I don't know anything about the Victor brand.
The Heathkit is older because Nixie tubes were used before LED displays were used. Also the corrosion on the BNC is not a good sign,
My first counter was similar to that B&K. The display on mine became unreliable, I believe because of a connector issue. My model didn't go very high in frequency so I decided to trade up.
Note that both the Heathkit and the B&K used a power cord connector with
round pins, unlike the common power cords now which have flat blades.
I not wild about any of those three.
Isn't there a way that you could change the power cord plug-in on the back of the B & K unit so that it fits a modern PC Style plug in? If so then I would think that the B & K unit would be a fine alternative to the Hewlett-Packard one that has the rediculous shipping charges.
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  #37  
Old 04-22-2020, 12:11 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heathkit-Di...temCondition=4

I just found a Heathkit SM-2420 512 Mhz Frequency Counter on ebay buy it now price of $24.99 and $27.99 shipping costs, and it has a hardwired cord rather than an old school style computer cord.
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  #38  
Old 04-22-2020, 12:43 PM
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OK, so I just figured out that by reading the manual for the Radio City Products Signal Generator I'll be getting, that it actually has a hookup on it that can be used to hook up a frequency counter and monitor the frequency.

So the RCP unit might actually be a better unit than the Heathkit one in this case.
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  #39  
Old 04-22-2020, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
Isn't there a way that you could change the power cord plug-in on the back of the B & K unit so that it fits a modern PC Style plug in? If so then I would think that the B & K unit would be a fine alternative to the Hewlett-Packard one that has the rediculous shipping charges.
There are three different in compatible old style 'computer' power cord receptacles in old test equipment (somewhere here I posted a picture of them). They range from somewhat common to 'OMG this is the only cord for this I have ever seen' my Heathkit Nixie DMM had the later and I needed the cord for a much rarer Sony Badged Setchell Carlson monitor so I converted it the DMM to use a modern computer power receptacle(IIRC pirated off a dead PC PSU)... I had to enlarge the case opening with a file but it was easy enough to do....I could have converted it to a hard wired cord too but I wanted it detachable for convenience.

There's always a way to power something with a weird 120v power receptacle...I keep a cord with insulated alligator clips around specifically for portable TVs with weird proprietary jacks for Missing power cords....
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  #40  
Old 04-22-2020, 01:59 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
There are three different in compatible old style 'computer' power cord receptacles in old test equipment (somewhere here I posted a picture of them). They range from somewhat common to 'OMG this is the only cord for this I have ever seen' my Heathkit Nixie DMM had the later and I needed the cord for a much rarer Sony Badged Setchell Carlson monitor so I converted it the DMM to use a modern computer power receptacle(IIRC pirated off a dead PC PSU)... I had to enlarge the case opening with a file but it was easy enough to do....I could have converted it to a hard wired cord too but I wanted it detachable for convenience.

There's always a way to power something with a weird 120v power receptacle...I keep a cord with insulated alligator clips around specifically for portable TVs with weird proprietary jacks for Missing power cords....
That's all I needed to know, I might just go for the B & K unit then because its will only come out to a little over $40 including shipping and taxes.

Last edited by vortalexfan; 05-09-2020 at 12:37 PM.
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  #41  
Old 04-22-2020, 02:30 PM
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I ended up getting the Heathkit SM-2420 Frequency Counter as it was basically the same price with shipping and taxes as the B & K unit and also had the same specs as well, and it had a hardwired power cord with it so then I wouldn't have to worry about messing around with changing out the plug-in for the cord, like I would of had to of done with the B & K unit.
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  #42  
Old 04-22-2020, 08:02 PM
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I think the 2420 was a good choice. I found a manual for it online.
https://www.audioservicemanuals.com/...im-2420-manual
The crystal oscillator in an oven is definitely a very good thing.

Do you have or intend on getting the Radio City Products generator?
I don't think there were many digital frequency counters back then.
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  #43  
Old 04-22-2020, 08:11 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
I think the 2420 was a good choice. I found a manual for it online.
https://www.audioservicemanuals.com/...im-2420-manual
The crystal oscillator in an oven is definitely a very good thing.

Do you have or intend on getting the Radio City Products generator?
I don't think there were many digital frequency counters back then.
Yes I did get it. And I found out it was made specifically for AM/FM alignment work as well as Shortwave work.
And it also has an RF Output that is a higher voltage/volume output that can be used independently of the Attenuator for monitoring the frequencies with a frequency counter (which back then would of been nixie tubes).

Last edited by vortalexfan; 04-22-2020 at 08:45 PM.
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  #44  
Old 04-22-2020, 09:13 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
Apparently some restorers connect a Si rectifier diode across the selenium one without disconnecting the selenium. I even saw that in a book about radio restoration. It isn't a good idea because the old rectifier can leak reverse current.Since your generator had been re-capped I thought that might be the case.
I definitely double checked the Selenium Rectifier and it definitely doesn't have a Silicone Diode across it, so it was done correctly!
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  #45  
Old 04-23-2020, 10:33 AM
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It's not a bad idea to replace the original selenium rectifier in it with a modern 1N4007 or similar as preventive maintenance or you can be a Daredevil and run it with the original till it smokes.... I've taken both approaches.
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