GE 10T1 Help Needed

Selenium rect's replaced (bad), I've replaced most of the electrolytics and all the paper tubulars but still can't get the vertical hold locked in well. Looks as though the horiz hold has an effect on the vert and the whole pix is wavy. On the plus side, I've got good detail, sound and a full raster. I know these chassis are pretty common & presume several users have 'done' one of these, so where should I look next? Don't have a scope, so what's a good alternative? Start checking all pin voltages in the vert section or is there some similar fault common to these?
Thanks for any help!

Michael

You said you have replaced "most" of the electrolytics. Have you replaced all of the electrolytics in the vertical circuits? If not, try that first.

You know, I DID overlook that 3-section cap. Yep, it was the 40 mfd section that was bad. All's fine now, set works great. Thanks v/much for the 'kick' !!

Michael

Great! How about posting a screen shot so we can all see it.

You know, sometimes it really pays off to do the detail work. On the rear apron there's the "Klixon" circuit breaker that showed up on a lot of things in the late 40's-early 50's. These GE sets were one of them, 800, 810, 10T1, etc. and they're failure-prone. Sure enough, someone had soldered a jumper across the terminals so I dropped in a panel-mount Rockwell circuit breaker. Last night, the pix suddenly--and very quickly--began to grow dim and there was that telltale 'click'. Dead. Turns out that an earlier replacement diode, one of those metal/ceramic, clip-in types, had gone bad; same resistance both directions. Replaced it with another 600V,1A jobbie and all's well again. Yes, that's Demi Moore on the chassis photo, GE2. Please see

http://members.aol.com/emelaich/ge2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/emelaich/ge5.jpg

Now to get back on the Philco projection set with the 50 lb chassis...

Michael

That is a beautiful set, both cosmetically and functionally. GREAT JOB!