Attempting first project - Some questions if I may

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by albanks

I appreciate your reply. I will re-read it when I get home. Just quickly though with regard to the "DAG", now that I understand what it is, the coating is worn off in several blotches of the tube. Would it be prudent that I re-coat these areas (if that is even possible)?

Are you sure it's worn off, or could it be deliberately not applied in those areas? It should not be applied too close to the high voltage connector because of the possibility of arcing. (Of course, what is there should be contiguous so it's all grounded.) In any case, it's OK to wait until you have the set running to see if there is any problem. Aquadag (the full name) can be purchased and applied easily, but I wouldn't bother until you're sure you need it.

[zeno]

First thing is change the caps ONE AT A TIME ! Then recheck the
set & see if anything changed.

1) those NOS cans are OLD ! By the 70's they packaged them in just
plastic, not boxes. Since the set is running you may want to do them
last in this case.
2) it may be a subbed cap & there is another one hung in under there somewhere.
3) most Zeniths twisted 2 of the lugs & soldered the other 2 so breaking
off the twisted ones it will come out easy. You may need a very hot
iron such as the old classic Weller gun.
4) The CRT wasnt grounding good. Someone moused it to get by.
The GND is made either with a set of finger or a coil spring on the bottom.
Some use a very long, small spring across the DAG. If the DAG is chipping
off it can be replaced. Symptom are diagonal dots in pix, bad sync, sometimes hissing, sparkles & ozone smell. Can also radiate & bother other TV's radios etc.
5) not sure what you mean here.

Safety ! The most dangerous place is where the AC comes in. I never
heard of a tech dying from a TV HV shock. I got them once a week for
40 yrs. The filter cans in most sets will bleed off fast. The HV will stay
charged a LONG time with a tube rectifier. Avoid the base of the HV
rect tube & anode lead. If you discharge it it can build back up to a
lower level so discharge several times over a few minutes.

BTW Put up a few under chassis & chassis pixs & chassis ##

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[albanks]

Originally Posted by zeno

First thing is change the caps ONE AT A TIME ! Then recheck the
set & see if anything changed.

1) those NOS cans are OLD ! By the 70's they packaged them in just
plastic, not boxes. Since the set is running you may want to do them
last in this case.
2) it may be a subbed cap & there is another one hung in under there somewhere.
3) most Zeniths twisted 2 of the lugs & soldered the other 2 so breaking
off the twisted ones it will come out easy. You may need a very hot
iron such as the old classic Weller gun.
4) The CRT wasnt grounding good. Someone moused it to get by.
The GND is made either with a set of finger or a coil spring on the bottom.
Some use a very long, small spring across the DAG. If the DAG is chipping
off it can be replaced. Symptom are diagonal dots in pix, bad sync, sometimes hissing, sparkles & ozone smell. Can also radiate & bother other TV's radios etc.
5) not sure what you mean here.

Safety ! The most dangerous place is where the AC comes in. I never
heard of a tech dying from a TV HV shock. I got them once a week for
40 yrs. The filter cans in most sets will bleed off fast. The HV will stay
charged a LONG time with a tube rectifier. Avoid the base of the HV
rect tube & anode lead. If you discharge it it can build back up to a
lower level so discharge several times over a few minutes.

BTW Put up a few under chassis & chassis pixs & chassis ##

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Thank you for the help. I am working on setting up a work area in the cellar then I can take more pics as I go. I don't want to open the set up again in my apartment as it is generally very dirty and crud always falls over the place.

[Notimetolooz]

Originally Posted by albanks

Thank you for the help. I am working on setting up a work area in the cellar then I can take more pics as I go. I don't want to open the set up again in my apartment as it is generally very dirty and crud always falls over the place.

One of the first things you should do is clean the chassis. Some of that dirt may be conductive and lead to problems. You can use compressed air if you are careful. Don't hit the speaker or the DAG with high pressure air for instance.
Another way is using a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush (paint brush). Don't suck the Dag off the CRT.
A limited amount of window cleaner can be used but don't go near the tube numbers. The tube numbers can sometimes come off if you touch them.
It would be better if you worked on some radios first to get the hang of things.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

One of the first things you should do is clean the chassis.

It's funny you mention that, I did just that! A lot of rust came off, chassis is now looking good.

[albanks]

I've discovered paper caps are pretty easy and straight forward - when there is enough room to work! Some of these caps have no lead length and are behind several layers of resistors and other parts. I guess the engineers didn't intend for anyone to be recapping 50 years in the future. I also have several books from the 60's and 70's and capacitors are never mentioned. I guess this is a very modern thing we have to do.

Thanks for everyones help. I will have about another 6 questions soon in case anyone else will want to answer and help out. Cannot wait to get done and turn on the TV and see if it works, lol.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by zeno

You may need a very hot
iron such as the old classic Weller gun.

I'm finding that out now. I will have to pick up something more heavy duty for desoldering. For the normal soldering of the paper caps will a 30 watt soldering iron from Harbor Freight work? I seem to remember reading somewhere 40watt is the normal minimum.

[Notimetolooz]

Originally Posted by albanks

I'm finding that out now. I will have to pick up something more heavy duty for desoldering. For the normal soldering of the paper caps will a 30 watt soldering iron from Harbor Freight work? I seem to remember reading somewhere 40watt is the normal minimum.

30-40 W will do for most things. Things soldered to the chassis may take more, maybe 60W, but you don't have to remove the metal cased caps anyway most of the time. Also if a component lead is soldered to the chassis you can clip the lead near the old part and splice the new component lead to the old lead, no need for a big iron.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Are you sure it's worn off, or could it be deliberately not applied in those areas? It should not be applied too close to the high voltage connector because of the possibility of arcing. (Of course, what is there should be contiguous so it's all grounded.) In any case, it's OK to wait until you have the set running to see if there is any problem. Aquadag (the full name) can be purchased and applied easily, but I wouldn't bother until you're sure you need it.

Well I did notice it is not applied near the high voltage connector but I was thinking it was worn off due to the unevenness of it all. Toward the top it's chipping and peeling. After I recap it then perhaps I will see where I am with this aspect.